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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 7,246 ft
GPS: 40.009, -105.41 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.

Description

This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.

L->R (incomplete):

Zen Garden Wall:

A. Fright Grooves, 8+ X, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.
D. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
E. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
F. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
G. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
H. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

From the creek:

I. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.
J. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.
JK. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.
K. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
L1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.
L2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.
M1. Variation to Hunky Monkey, 11+, 2p, bolts.
M2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.
N. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.
O. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.
P. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
Q. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
R. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.
S? Podophobia, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T? Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.
U. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
V. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
W1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
W2. 5.9 Crack, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
W3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.
X. Wide Crack, 8, gear.
Y. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.
Z. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.
above Y. Interzone, 1p, gear.
AA. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,
BB. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.
CC. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.
DD. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.
EE. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.
FFGG. Lost in Tradslation, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
GG. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.
HH. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.
II. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.
JJ. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.
KK. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.
LL. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.

Wake Up Wall:

MM. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.
NN. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
OO. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
PP. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
QQ. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
RR. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
SS. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.
TT. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.
UU. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.
UUWW. Outta This World, 12-, 1p, 75', gear.
VV. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
WW. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.
XX. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.
YY. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
ZZ. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
AAA. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
BBB. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Angel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Traveler
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AAArete
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop Zone
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Cargo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Autumn
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hunky Monkey
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Naked Lunch
Sport 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination Direct
Sport 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Voyage
Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and St…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dynamometer
Sport 3 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Archangel
Sport 2 pitches
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
China Doll (P1-2, free)
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Time Traveler 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
AAArete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Drop Zone 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Strange Cargo 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Autumn 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Divination 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Naked Lunch 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 5 pitches
Divination Direct 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
Variation to Hunky Monkey 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Earth Voyage 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh… 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dynamometer 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 3 pitches
Archangel 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
China Doll (P1-2, free) 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
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Weather Averages

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Evan18
Boulder, CO
Evan18   Boulder, CO
I was up here for the first time in a few years and was blown away by the amount of wear that the area is starting to show. The area to the west of the parking lot to the top of Lost Angel and to the gully to Dream Dome is getting pretty thrashed by camping. It's also crazy how many trails are getting cut. I don't think it is primarily climbers as the area is clearly 'out' now that it is close dispersed camping to Boulder, but just I thought that as other use of the area is on the rise we pay more attention to how we travel over and take care of the land. Jul 25, 2016
Yep, I got lost, too. Don't go here for the first time if you are under any time constraint. It'll likely take a bit to find your bearings, but once you understand the canyon, it shouldn't be too difficult to find your way around. Jul 26, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I have a complaint/ warning to others. Yesterday the weather was cloudy, misting, and light rain all day, so I figured instead of letting the weather shut me down like it has for about 2 weeks now I would go aid China Doll. Seeing as I have never been to Dream Canyon, this was probably a bad idea. We missed the correct approach and basically ended up right in the middle of the canyon below upper and above lower.

The problem was that we had no idea what we were on top of at the top and there is a ton of spur trails. The tops of the cliffs didn't present any distinct land marks to navigate from (we didn't know what cliff was which as you can't see the face from above) and it was unclear which drainage was the correct one to descend. We went way too far east in an attempt to find a for sure safe way down. The problem was we didn't want to slip on top of a big dome or slab of rock and end up at the bottom dead, or get cliffed out by taking the wrong way down. So, we just took the obvious main trail down to the bottom. Up the creek we went, crossing like 5 times I was sure glad I left my pack up top...not.

We arrived at the Lost Angel super exhausted not to mention running out of time, only had time to link the first 2 pitches and lower/back clean. I didn't climb at all, just a horrendous walk in a soaked canyon. with extra warm clothes and tons of gear for nothing! I guess at least my friend got some more aid experience, but at what price?

We came back up the ramp and saw another option we were considering for descent earlier, definitely cliffed out but was probably less then 100 yards from the ramp. For some reason we thought that deadly option was the dream dome descent but actually we were atop midnight instead of the LA. I hope I can find the ramp next time as there wasn't much that was really distinct about where we popped out.

So, the lesson, expect to waste a day (or maybe just part of the day if you start early enough) just finding the formation/route you want to climb here as navigation can suck. Probably good practice for descending into the black canyon on a smaller scale.

How many others have been lost here? I bet I'm not the first by a long-shot. Studying the contour of the river (in relation to the map in your guidebook) seemed helpful after the fact. We figured that out while we were lost in the bottom wondering where we were. Oct 12, 2008
Chad  
My guidebook was grabbed at base of the Lost Angel wall. If you have it, please let me know. caabiz@gmail.com Nov 20, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
It's not a big deal, but there are too many climbs here under Lost Angel. It would be nice to separate them out under sub-crags. For example, it is not easy now to find all the climbs on the Zen Garden Wall, or Wake Up Wall. These two areas are both under Lost Angel although they are probably nearly 1/4 mile apart!

Navigation to the base of these climbs is complex and confusing. But that is part of the fun of Dream Canyon! The map above is a great help, although there is room for improvement. Jun 6, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
In 2003, Vaino Kodas and partners put up six new routes on Wake Up Wall at the top of Lost Angel.See vainokodas.com/climbing/cor… for details.

I climbed four of these routes recently, and have added them to the data base. I hope Vaino will add his excellent photos to these route descriptions. Jul 23, 2004

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