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Lost Angel Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lost Angel

L › R R › L A › Z

	AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
	China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dynamometer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	7,246 ft	2,209 m
GPS:	40.0089, -105.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	146,682 total · 499/month
Shared By:	Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.

L->R (incomplete):

Zen Garden Wall:

A. Fright Grooves, 8+ X, 1p, 60', gear.

B. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

C. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.

D. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.

E. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

F. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

G. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

H. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

From the creek:

I. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.

J. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.

JK. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.

K. Lacewing, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

L. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.

M1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.

M2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.

N1. Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?), 11+, 2p, bolts.

N2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.

O. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.

P. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.

QP. Earth Voyage, 12, 1p, 110', bolts.

Q. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.

R. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.

S. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.

T? Podophobia, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.

U? Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.

V. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.

W. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.

X1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.

X2. Light of Day, 9, 1p, 60', gear.

X3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.

Y. Wide Crack, 8, gear.

Z. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.

AA. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.

above Z. Interzone, 1p, gear.

BB. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,

CC. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.

DD. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.

EE. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.

FF. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.

GGHH. Lost in Tradslation, 10, 1p, 100', gear.

HH. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.

II. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.

JJ. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.

KK. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.

LL. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.

MM. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.

Wake Up Wall:

NN1. Pistol Grip Pump, 10, 1p, 200', gear.

NN2. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.

OO. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.

PP1. Crack In the Wall, 9+, 1p, 75', gear.

PP2. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.

QQ. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.

RR. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.

SS. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.

TT. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.

UU. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.

VV. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.

VVXX. Outta This World, 12-, 1p, 75', gear.

WW. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

XX. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.

YY. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.

ZZ. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

AAA. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.

BBB. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.

CCC. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious. You can descend around the formation on either side, so find a slight notch in the rock and descent down a gully. It should be pretty easy walking - if it looks 5th class, that's not right!

The main path eventually hits a campsite (find the notch near here), then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole. This is way too far - head back up.

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Angel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 29 ● Time Traveler Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 66 ● AAArete Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 37 ● Drop Zone Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 139 ● Strange Cargo Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 58 ● Autumn Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 110 ● Divination Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 153 ● Hunky Monkey Sport 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 52 ● Naked Lunch Sport 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 48 ● Divination Direct Sport 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 33 ● Variation to Hunky Monkey (last… Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 79 ● Earth Voyage Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 30 ● Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny a… Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 34 ● Rock Odyssey Sport 3 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 109 ● Archangel Sport 2 pitches
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a 15 ● China Doll (P1-2, free) Trad, Sport 2 pitches