Elevation: 7,246 ft
GPS: 40.009, -105.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 101,421 total · 426/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.

L->R (incomplete):

Zen Garden Wall:

A. Fright Grooves, 8+ X, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.
D. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
E. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
F. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
G. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
H. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

From the creek:

I. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.
J. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.
JK. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.
K. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
L1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.
L2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.
M1. Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?), 11+, 2p, bolts.
M2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.
N. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.
O. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.
P. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
Q. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
R. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.
S? Podophobia, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T? Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.
U. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
V. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
W1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
W2. 5.9 Crack (Light of Day?), 9, 1p, 60', gear.
W3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.
X. Wide Crack, 8, gear.
Y. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.
Z. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.
above Y. Interzone, 1p, gear.
AA. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,
BB. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.
CC. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.
DD. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.
EE. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.
FFGG. Lost in Tradslation, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
GG. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.
HH. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.
II. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.
JJ. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.
KK. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.
LL. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.

Wake Up Wall:

MM. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.
NN. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
OO. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
PP. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
QQ. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
RR. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
SS. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.
TT. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.
UU. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.
UUWW. Outta This World, 12-, 1p, 75', gear.
VV. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
WW. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.
XX. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.
YY. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
ZZ. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
AAA. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
BBB. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious.  You can descend around the formation on either side, so find a slight notch in the rock and descent down a gully.  It should be pretty easy walking - if it looks 5th class, that's not right!

The main path eventually hits a campsite (find the notch near here), then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole.  This is way too far - head back up.

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Lost Angel Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Angel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Time Traveler
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
AAArete
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Drop Zone
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 110
Strange Cargo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Autumn
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 83
Divination
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 122
Hunky Monkey
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Naked Lunch
Sport 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 39
Divination Direct
Sport 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Variation to Hunky Monkey (last…
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 60
Earth Voyage
Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny a…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Dynamometer
Sport 3 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 73
Archangel
Sport 2 pitches
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
China Doll (P1-2, free)
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Time Traveler
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
AAArete
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Drop Zone
 28
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Strange Cargo
 110
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Autumn
 48
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Divination
 83
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey
 122
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Naked Lunch
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 5 pitches
Divination Direct
 39
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
Variation to Hunky Monkey (…
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Earth Voyage
 60
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh…
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dynamometer
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 3 pitches
Archangel
 73
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
China Doll (P1-2, free)
 10
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
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