Lost Angel Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.
Zen Garden Wall:
A. Fright Grooves, 8+ X, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.
D. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
E. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
F. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
G. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
H. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
From the creek:
I. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.
J. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.
JK. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.
K. Lacewing, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
M1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.
M2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.
N1. Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?), 11+, 2p, bolts.
N2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.
O. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.
P. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.
QP. Earth Voyage, 12, 1p, 110', bolts.
Q. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
R. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
S. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.
T? Podophobia, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
U? Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.
V. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
W. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
X1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
X2. Light of Day, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
X3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.
Y. Wide Crack, 8, gear.
Z. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.
AA. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.
above Z. Interzone, 1p, gear.
BB. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,
CC. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.
DD. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.
EE. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.
FF. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.
GGHH. Lost in Tradslation, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
HH. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.
II. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.
JJ. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.
KK. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.
LL. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.
MM. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.
Wake Up Wall:
NN. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.
OO. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
PP1. Crack In the Wall, 9+, 1p, 75', gear.
PP2. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
QQ. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
RR. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
SS. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
TT. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.
UU. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.
VV. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.
VVXX. Outta This World, 12-, 1p, 75', gear.
WW. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
XX. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.
YY. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.
ZZ. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
AAA. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
BBB. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
CCC. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.
From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious. You can descend around the formation on either side, so find a slight notch in the rock and descent down a gully. It should be pretty easy walking - if it looks 5th class, that's not right!
The main path eventually hits a campsite (find the notch near here), then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole. This is way too far - head back up.
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