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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: John Adams and Dan Hare, July 2005
Page Views: 161 total, 1/month
Shared By: brent pohlmann on Oct 27, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Signs of Life starts about 15-20 feet right of Zentropa and is a bolted face climb with red hangers. The route is great. It starts with a hard move pulling over a sort-of roof with a long stem and a sloper. Then easy face climb to a fun roof and above to the crux. A fresh rock scar with chalk behind it makes it seem like the crux was probably easier before, but who knows. The crux involves another stem left and a move off a tiny sloper. Then some more easy face climbing to a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Super fun and crowd free. Nice link up with killer second pitch of Disneyland (one of the better pitches in the canyon, I think). Funny little angling crack traverse to link the two-- bring a big piece or two--5.6 ish (continues up Freedom ramp past obvious gap to base of Disneyland, pitch two). Jun 18, 2017
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.11b
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.11b
A group of us top roped this today. All of us felt like the crux was the bulge between the first and second bolts. It's probably easier the lighter you are, and flexibility makes it a wide stem rather than pure strength. My 220 lb frame couldn't get it clean.

Both my partners did a wide stem to the other bulge out left, but the sequence isn't done there. The holds are bad until about 4 feet above that. Oct 26, 2014
Evan18
Boulder, CO
 
Evan18   Boulder, CO
 
This route has faded red hangers to help spot it. Awesome route, interesting throughout. Definitely go left at bolt 9 into some interesting holds, otherwise you might find yourself a good distance from your last pro with no hands out right. 3 long draws kills the drag over the first bulge and the roof. It could definitely stand to be cleaned up a bit more, but I'm not complaining. May 28, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
As Craig says, the first hanger is fine, but you might want to put a longer quickdraw there. It's right under a bulge and a short draw causes a lot of drag. As Rolofson's book points out, you need to go left after clipping bolt 9, gaining a ledge at the top of a column. It might seem like you are far enough left at this point to be off-route, but this is how the route was intended to go. If you stay on the bolt line above bolt 9 you will find yourself out of holds. The route is pretty nice, especially the crux at bolt 2 and the roof. Aug 25, 2008
The first hanger is currently in situ. May 19, 2006
Bruce Pech
  5.11b
Bruce Pech  
  5.11b
The first hanger is still AWOL (although the nut and washer are in place). Starting the climb takes some doing since: (a) the first bolt is drilled up into a bulge and can't safely be slung with a wire (even if you finger tighten the nut and washer against the cable); (b) the second bolt is set back on a slab and can't be stick clipped from directly below; and (c) at 5' 11", I couldn't reach the second bolt from the narrow, mossy ledge that diagonals up and right below the bulge. Finally, I edged right on the ledge past a tiny bush and stick clipped the second bolt horizontally -- then pulled over the bulge and did a dicey 4' traverse back left along the lip to the bolt.

Once past the start, the climbing is excellent. The fun roof goes at .10a or .10b; the crux at delicate .11a/b. Like Dana, we linked up with Zentropa for a sweet 3 pitch, 200'+ climb. Aug 16, 2005
11a or 11b seems to be about right if you keep your belly to the bolts at the crux. I think you could avoid the crux by climbing way left of the bolt line. This climb ends at the ramp right below the second pitch of Zentropa. Combining this pitch with the uppper pitches of Zentropa is excellent. Nov 10, 2004
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
 
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
 
In hindsight, I don't think this is 3-stars...has anyone climbed this thing besides me? Nov 8, 2004