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Routes in Lost Angel
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AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 |
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China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamometer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Chris Weidner, June 18, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,378 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Jun 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This variation links the upper corner of Jungle Blues From Jupiter into the dihedral (and crux) of Spiders From Mars via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from The Vaino Step start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (The Host, The Vaino Step, Jungle Blues...). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.
Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with JBFJ. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of SFM.
Finish as per Spiders From Mars: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.
Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with JBFJ. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of SFM.
Finish as per Spiders From Mars: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.
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