Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Chris Weidner, June 18, 2015
Page Views: 531 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jun 19, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This variation links the upper corner of Jungle Blues From Jupiter into the dihedral (and crux) of Spiders From Mars via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from The Vaino Step start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (The Host, The Vaino Step, Jungle Blues...). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.

Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with JBFJ. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of SFM.

Finish as per Spiders From Mars: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

It is well-protected throughout.

1 each: #0 Metolius - #3 Camalot, a few medium nuts.
2 each: #0.4 Camalot - #0.75 Camalot.
5 draws, 8 long slings including two double-length.

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