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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Horan, Skip Gurin, Harrison Dekker, 1981
Page Views: 1,337 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nate Harris on Sep 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the far right side of Lost Angel, in the Wake Up Wall area. It starts 10 or so feet to the left of Drop Zone (the rightmost bolt line behind the large pine tree), in the large right-facing dihedral. It follows a thin crack up one overhang (approx 10a?), goes up the face for a short distance, then continues up through another overhang (10c?). Continue up the lichen-encrusted face and either go up until you can walk off to the right, or traverse right and rappel from the bolts at the top of Drop Zone.

Protection

Standard rack. Small cams (finger size) for most of it, and a couple bigger pieces for up higher.
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11b
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11b
The lower corner is definitely the crux of this route. I felt like the upper roof was hard 5.10, but the lower corner felt 5.11 Might be reach-dependent based on others comment about bypassing the first crux. I didn't see anyway to do that. Feb 21, 2017
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
You can bypass the first crux by doing a "step" to end up above The Vaino Step. A few feet up the starting corner you can stem out left to a knob. Maneuver your right foot up until you can reach out left to a jug/horn. Swing left onto the slab and clip a bolt or two. This variation is about 5.9 if you're tall enough to reach the horn. Mar 10, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Rolofson's new guide rates the first crux as 11a which makes me feel a lot better. The finger jam is slick, feet are small, and the cam protecting the crux is in a glassy parallel crack, which adds some doubt.

Rolofson calls the second crux 10d, but it feels more like 10a/b to me, although it's intimidating. Mar 10, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
To get down: Continue to the top up an easy crack or possibly go up a ways and then right to anchors for the two sport climbs to the right. Or do what we did: Place some gear a short ways above the roof, downclimb and clip the anchor bolts just above the roof on the left (The Host 11c/d) and lower, being careful of the rope over the lip. The second cleans the trad anchor, steps down to the bolts and lowers or raps off. Jul 24, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
For me, the first overhang was the crux. Perhaps thinner fingers help? Or better footwork? The second overhang was quite a bit easier with good jams and feet. Rossiter's topo shows the second roof as 11a despite a 10c rating in the text. Jul 24, 2005