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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 226 total · 1/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Dyno Arete is one of the stranger routes on Lost Angel. It is distinguished by a single crux move that is weirder than all hell, and is otherwise quite mediocre. Rossiter rates it 11a, but it's more of a boulder problem on a rope than anything... and probably not even that hard, once you commit to the move. Bizarre.

Start as for Freedom, then traverse left to the arete (crux), and up to the top.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Will Butler
Boulder, CO
 
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
 
I think this is a pretty decent warm-up for other routes in the area. The crux is a bit of a one-move-wonder that's always involved falling into a jug for me. Good stone. Apr 14, 2015
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I can't let that be the last post. It is somewhat height dependent, though not enough to cry about, since my partner who is 1 foot shorter than me got it in a few tries. Right now the whole canyon smells of vanilla from those trees and is wonderfully cool... Enjoy the abilities you have, and just have fun outside! Aug 6, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
 
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
 
I have to agree that this route is strange and pretty much sucks. I want my fifteen minutes of life back I used on this thing. Aug 27, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Hey...the route is called Digital Dilemma. 5.11d/12a. 8 bolts. It's posted.... Jun 23, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
What is the route immediately to the left of DA? Excellent line, boulder problem start, steep slab moves, stemming dihedral. Not in Rossiter's book. Jun 23, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
My partner is 5'2", and she was able to do the crux statically. Good line. Bring a few runners if rope drag is a problem. Jun 23, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
From the anchor on Dyno Arete, you can top-rope the corner directly below. Start with Freedom, and continue up the corner instead of traversing right. Fun laybacking and stemming takes you to the anchor. I thought the line was solid 5.10 and well worth doing. Two stars. Jun 18, 2003
I would agree with the above comment - if you can reach the juggy holds around the corner with your left hand, it's not too bad, aside from the total lack of feet?! Jun 16, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
This was more difficult for me than most of the other 11s I tried there yesterday, including pitches up to 5.11d. This is a climb where height and armspan seem to be of significant importance. May 6, 2002

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