Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 285 total · 1/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dyno Arete is one of the stranger routes on Lost Angel. It is distinguished by a single crux move that is weirder than all hell, and is otherwise quite mediocre. Rossiter rates it 11a, but it's more of a boulder problem on a rope than anything... and probably not even that hard, once you commit to the move. Bizarre.

Start as for Freedom, then traverse left to the arete (crux), and up to the top.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
This was more difficult for me than most of the other 11s I tried there yesterday, including pitches up to 5.11d. This is a climb where height and armspan seem to be of significant importance. May 6, 2002
I would agree with the above comment - if you can reach the juggy holds around the corner with your left hand, it's not too bad, aside from the total lack of feet?! Jun 16, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
From the anchor on Dyno Arete, you can top-rope the corner directly below. Start with Freedom, and continue up the corner instead of traversing right. Fun laybacking and stemming takes you to the anchor. I thought the line was solid 5.10 and well worth doing. Two stars. Jun 18, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
My partner is 5'2", and she was able to do the crux statically. Good line. Bring a few runners if rope drag is a problem. Jun 23, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
What is the route immediately to the left of DA? Excellent line, boulder problem start, steep slab moves, stemming dihedral. Not in Rossiter's book. Jun 23, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Hey...the route is called Digital Dilemma. 5.11d/12a. 8 bolts. It's posted.... Jun 23, 2003
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
 
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
 
I have to agree that this route is strange and pretty much sucks. I want my fifteen minutes of life back I used on this thing. Aug 27, 2006
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I can't let that be the last post. It is somewhat height dependent, though not enough to cry about, since my partner who is 1 foot shorter than me got it in a few tries. Right now the whole canyon smells of vanilla from those trees and is wonderfully cool... Enjoy the abilities you have, and just have fun outside! Aug 6, 2007
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
 
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
 
I think this is a pretty decent warm-up for other routes in the area. The crux is a bit of a one-move-wonder that's always involved falling into a jug for me. Good stone. Apr 14, 2015