Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
Routes in Lost Angel
|5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3|
|China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Kyle Copeland and Marc Hirt, 1981|
|Page Views:||5,793 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionChina Doll IV 5.9 A3+ (nearly C3+)
The exact details of the FA are unknown to me but I believe this line is as described below based upon the fixed equipment on the route and the information from Rossiter's Dream Canyon/Boulder Canyon guide. This is an obscure but compelling aid line up the middle of Lost Angel. It follows the prominent R-arching dihedral. Apparently attempts have been made to free some, if not all, of this route. Bring at least a gallon of water if done in the summer. It comes into the sun about 1pm.
Likely this route will go clean. We were only 2 pins away.
IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA, PLEASE READ NO FURTHER. Otherwise, here's the poop:
P1. There are probably at least 3 possible starts for the first pitch. You can follow the most direct line up the first pitch of Earth Voyage past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This requires a brief bit of 5.9 climbing to the 1st bolt, then a cam or two and a hook move about mid pitch, and high-stepping the bolts to reach a small ledge. Alternatively, you can do a bit of free climbing with the 1st pitch of Archangel 5.9 past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor just R of Earth Voyage's 1st anchor. Finally, a line of more traditional features lies between these starts and can finish on either anchor. C2. 50 feet.
P2. This pitch can be combined with P1. Start up the prominent R-facing dihedral reminiscent of Yosemite. Use a tenuous hook move early and then small cams to .33 Alien, Lowe balls, fixed bashies, a fixed pin, modern bolts, stoppers/RP to gain the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring plus old 1/4" bolt anchor at a semi-hanging belay. Pretty pitch. C2+, 50 feet. There is a possible cam hook placement attempted that blew about 1/3 the way up this pitch.
P3. This pitch continues up the same dihedral sans modern bolts. The crack in the dihedral widens a bit. We used a #3 and #4 Camalot to start; however, a wider cam (#4.5) might fill the crack tighter. Then smaller to mid size cams, Lowe ball(s), a bashie, a hook move around an awkward bit leads you to where Rock Odyssey crosses the route out a roof. Here we used a knifeblade just before the buttonhead and Star-driven 1/4" bolt with single-biner-hole-Leeper hanger semi-hanging belay. A2+, nearly C2+, 80 feet.
P4. This is where the route gets significantly more funky and feels like a traverse. The roof overhangs the dihedral significantly here and keeps the rock from getting cleaned. The slab below the dihedral sheds exfoliative flakes. The rock in the corner has a much wilder feel to it. High-step up off the belay (gotta trust those tiny bits of metal) to a #0.5 Camalot placement, then sigh a bit at a medium wire placement. At that point, there is a flare that blew a #1 Friend placement and prompted us to utilize a LA in crumbly rock. Aid masters may find obvious clean placements that escaped us. Then, utilize the roof crack with a #1 Camalot and then a smaller cam. Then tie off the fixed partially driven LA. Hook here to gain small cam placements. Then move right with 3 cams on top of a large rounded flake. Here, excavation of 4 hook placements yielded tenuous edges at the crux here. It may be possible to free climb here for those desiring the switch. A few more cam placements bring you to a cramped, pigeon-like belay with 2 good #3 Camalot placements. Wires and other cams may reinforce this belay. A3+ (nearly C3+), 70 feet.
P5. You see the exit here just before the guano! The dihedral here traverses to a roof crack. Use cams, a possible red tricam, wires, and a fixed Leeper Z pin to gain the lip. A 0.5 Camalot placement just past the roof gives you a view of the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with rings 9 feet past the lip. This is an awkward semi-hanging belay stance. You can rappel to a modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring anchor (2nd belay of Rock Odyssey) and rappel again to the ground. C2+, 60 feet.
P6. Optional pitch from here goes up moderate free ground to the top.
All in all, this takes a longer day than you would guess from below. Cleaning P4 and P5 is taxing.