Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Kyle Copeland and Marc Hirt, 1981
Page Views: 7,561 total · 33/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

China Doll IV 5.9 A3+ (nearly C3+)

The exact details of the FA are unknown to me, but I believe this line is as described below based upon the fixed equipment on the route and the information from Rossiter's Dream Canyon/Boulder Canyon guide. This is an obscure but compelling aid line up the middle of Lost Angel. It follows the prominent, right-arching dihedral. Apparently attempts have been made to free some, if not all, of this route. Bring at least a gallon of water if done in the summer. It comes into the sun about 1pm.

Likely this route will go clean. We were only 2 pins away.

IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA, PLEASE READ NO FURTHER. Otherwise, here's the poop:

P1. There are probably at least 3 possible starts for the first pitch. You can follow the most direct line up the first pitch of Earth Voyage past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This requires a brief bit of 5.9 climbing to the 1st bolt, then a cam or two and a hook move about mid pitch, and high-stepping the bolts to reach a small ledge. Alternatively, you can do a bit of free climbing with the 1st pitch of Archangel 5.9 past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor just R of Earth Voyage's 1st anchor. Finally, a line of more traditional features lies between these starts and can finish on either anchor, C2. 50 feet.

P2. This pitch can be combined with P1. Start up the prominent R-facing dihedral reminiscent of Yosemite. Use a tenuous hook move early and then small cams to .33 Alien, Lowe balls, fixed bashies, a fixed pin, modern bolts, stoppers/RP to gain the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring plus old 1/4" bolt anchor at a semi-hanging belay. This is a pretty pitch,. C2+, 50 feet. There is a possible cam hook placement attempted that blew about 1/3 the way up this pitch.

P3. This pitch continues up the same dihedral sans modern bolts. The crack in the dihedral widens a bit. We used a #3 and #4 Camalot to start; however, a wider cam (#4.5) might fill the crack tighter. Then smaller to mid size cams, Lowe ball(s), a bashie, a hook move around an awkward bit leads you to where Rock Odyssey crosses the route out a roof. Here we used a knifeblade just before the buttonhead and Star-driven 1/4" bolt with single-biner-hole-Leeper hanger semi-hanging belay, A2+, nearly C2+, 80 feet.

P4. This is where the route gets significantly more funky and feels like a traverse. The roof overhangs the dihedral significantly here and keeps the rock from getting cleaned. The slab below the dihedral sheds exfoliative flakes. The rock in the corner has a much wilder feel to it. High-step up off the belay (gotta trust those tiny bits of metal) to a #0.5 Camalot placement, then sigh a bit at a medium wire placement. At that point, there is a flare that blew a #1 Friend placement and prompted us to utilize a LA in crumbly rock. Aid masters may find obvious clean placements that escaped us. Then, utilize the roof crack with a #1 Camalot and then a smaller cam. Then tie off the fixed partially driven LA. Hook here to gain small cam placements. Then move right with 3 cams on top of a large rounded flake. Here, excavation of 4 hook placements yielded tenuous edges at the crux here. It may be possible to free climb here for those desiring the switch. A few more cam placements bring you to a cramped, pigeon-like belay with 2 good #3 Camalot placements. Wires and other cams may reinforce this belay, A3+ (nearly C3+), 70 feet.

P5. You see the exit here just before the guano! The dihedral here traverses to a roof crack. Use cams, a possible red tricam, wires, and a fixed Leeper Z pin to gain the lip. A 0.5 Camalot placement just past the roof gives you a view of the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with rings 9 feet past the lip. This is an awkward semi-hanging belay stance. You can rappel to a modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring anchor (2nd belay of Rock Odyssey) and rappel again to the ground, C2+, 60 feet.

P6. An optional pitch from here goes up moderate free ground to the top.

All in all, this takes a longer day than you would guess from below. Cleaning P4 and P5 is taxing.

Protection

Double small cams down to 0.33 Alien, triple middle size cams to #2 Camalot, double #3 Camalots, 1- #4 Camalot, 1 set of wires, a few Lowe-balls, a few bigger RPs, 1 LA, 1 knifeblade, 1 48"+ sling to lower out, 2 tie-off slings, hooks, possible tricams (red & black), perhaps some offset wires. 2 ropes useful to rappel off.

History

Please note that this route was climbed in 1981 and named likely at that time. The name here is documentation of history. In climbing, it would be entirely inappropriate for climbers to rename routes or crags. The first ascentionists may not even be alive today. We understand that some people may take extreme offense to the name here. Note, that at one point, the name used here was for prized ceramic dolls that young American girls cherished. If you take offense to the name, please accept our apologies, it is history.

Click here (disambiguation) for a glimpse of insight.

Photos