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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Tom Painter (1st pitch), 2003
Page Views: 6,684 total, 42/month
Shared By: Tom Painter on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Hunky Monkey starts out of the bank of the creek in the right-facing dihedral right of the first pitch of Autumn and just left of the first pitch of Divination (more specifically just left of the direct start to Divination).

P1: climb a right-facing dihedral to ledge (.10d, 12 bolts - ~ 90').

P2: go straight off of belay up into short, right-facing dihedral to large, left-sloping ledge (.10d, ~6 bolts - ~ 50').

P3: continute up the large, left-sloping ledge to black-streaked bolted headwall, climb intricately up the headwall to hands/fingers crack, go over the headwall into a scoop, and make delicate face moves above to anchor on the prow (.11b/c, 9 bolts - ~ 90').

P4: strike out along a prow to left-facing dihedral and onto steep headwall above (.10d/.11a, 6 bolts - ~60').

A 70m rope is questionable for a rap. It is better to bring 2 ropes or walkoff.

Presently, it needs further cleaning on upper pitches. After some usage, this will be a Dream Canyon classic.

Protection

Well bolted - 15 draws more than sufficient. You can place a #1 Tech Friend between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the first pitch to protect the easy move to the 3rd. Ring bolt anchors, rap possible at each station.
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
We rapped with at 60m rope, and it got us down fine. Although, we did have to stop at all 4 of the anchors. Oct 23, 2016
Adam Fleming
Dillon, CO
  5.11c
Adam Fleming   Dillon, CO
  5.11c
P1 (5.10b) was our by far our favorite. Definitely going to link it with p2 next time. If 5.10b/c is your limit, don't be afraid to just do the first pitch if no other parties want to do the multipitch.

P3's "finger/hand crack" is little more than a pin scar and flaring nonsense. You might think pulling through the small roof is the crux, but don't be fooled! The friction slab comes out of nowhere. It made me feel like I was back in North Carolina (except for the closely spaced bolts). While belaying the leader on this pitch, be prepared to be pulled into the rock.

P4 really isn't worth it in my opinion. Other people must feel the same; it doesn't look nearly as traveled as the other pitches. It's a one move wonder. The crux at the top of the lip had both me and partner stuck for a while.

We rapped from P4 and P2 anchors. A 70m barely reached both times. Knot your ends. Be careful pulling the rope after the P4 rap. On the P2 rap, you can lower your ropes without getting in the way of people climbing P1. Sep 11, 2016
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.11b
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.11b
Just did this excellent route and thought I would offer my view:

Pitch 1. 5.10c. This is excellent though strenuous and awkward at about 50 feet. There is no need for a piece to get to bolt 3. The ledge at the end has 2 sets of belay anchors, 1 old Star drive bolt and the above mentioned stacked Leeper Z-pins. Why?

Pitch 2. 5.10b. This is short and fun with a surprisingly tricky start.

I could see combining these, but communication with the second becomes even more difficult if the creek is high.

Pitch 3. 11b. No way is this 11a, and there are more than a few 11c pitches in the canyon that feel easier. Not clear why there are two side by side bolts at the beginning of the slab, but the slab itself is high quality thin friction.

Pitch 4. 10c. A short romp up a corner to an abrupt final crux at the lip of a small roof.

This route has some of the eccentric bolting seen elsewhere in Dream with very closely spaced bolts in some places and then more widely spaced in others. I didn't see any need for supplementary gear, at least in comparison to its neighbor to the right.

We rapped twice with an 80 meter rope which was nice, but the rope came close to getting snagged in the corner left of the headwall on pitch 3, so watch out.

This is a great climb and a Boulder-area classic. Jul 2, 2016
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
 
Careful climbing up to and clipping the third bolt off the ground...probably a groundfall if you blow it there. Jun 2, 2013
John Dubya
  5.11b/c
John Dubya  
  5.11b/c
Oh sooo good. I'm going to be in the 10c camp on the 1st pitch. Felt like sustained 10ish climbing for 20 or so feet before the anchor. Third pitch is a gem, but def technical, thin slab after the overhanging crux. I'll have to agree with those who say harder than .11a. Aug 12, 2012
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Super enjoyable 1st 2 pitches that can be linked - no gear needed. Slab was crux for me on P3. Aug 6, 2012
Nat Thiem
Boulder, CO
Nat Thiem   Boulder, CO
There seem to be some added bolt lines on Hunky Monkey that can lure climbers off the route (such as me). On pitch 2, there seems to be a left variation that goes straight over the roof (which was fun). On pitch three I went far astray: instead of moving up the ramp, there is a red bolt line going straight up to the left. It goes for two more pitches. Does anyone know what these pitches are?

Edit. I see that the comments for Autumn address this other set of bolts. Sep 19, 2009
Bruce Pech
  5.11b
Bruce Pech  
  5.11b
I'm gonna dissent from the "consensus" and agree, in part, with Tom Painter (the OP), Scott Hudson & Ron Olsen. P1: Superb, steep climbing with a move or two of .10b. P2: Short but fun, .10a. P3: after the ramp, the headwall starts at .10 something but the finger locks and insecure, flaring hand crack up the ante to strenuous .11b/c while the slab and arete moves above take some wild .11b smearing. P4: easy climbing to the dihedral, one move of .10b/c over the roof.

Lastly, a word of caution about the descent. Two raps with a 70m rope will get you to the ground with about 2' of rope remaining at each rap. However, pulling the rope after the rap from the anchors at the top of P4 to the belay at the top of P2 is a gamble. It's very easy for the end of the rope to wedge in the deep crack between the "prow" and "left-facing dihedral" 10' above the belay at the bottom of P4. It happened to us. If you have a 70m and don't want to gamble, do a short rap down P4, a 90' rap down P3, and a 115' rap from the P2/P3 anchors to the deck. Aug 24, 2005
The guy that says you could lead this trad has his head up his arse, that goes for the 5.9+ too.. Oct 26, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Went back to this, and this time did the last pitch. It's a bit contrived, but fun. You can rap from the top in 2 rappels with a 70m rope. Linking P1 and P2 is possible with care. The finger and hand jams on P3 were very wet 12+ hours after a heavy rain, but it was still climbable. Oct 10, 2004
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I did this whole route today and really enjoyed it.I agree that this is an excellent addition to this wall. I have done this with 2 people now and the consesus so far is that the first pitch is about 10b, the second about 10a, and the third 11a. We thought the last pitch was 10c and is a really short and fun. The very crux for me is the move after the steep section on pitch 3 stepping left into the bowl and then continuing up the arete and left side of the arete. This probably could be avoided in the crack to the right but would remove one of the best cruxes on the route.

Very fun all the way to the top. Sep 19, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
A 70m rope gets you down easily from the top of P2. Don't know if a 60m works. Sep 13, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
P1 seemed about 10a/b, P2 10a, P3 11a. Didn't do P4, not knowing it existed. P3 looks ugly but climbs nicely. The slab above the steep headwall is contrived but fun.

Lots of trad gear potential on P1-P3. Would have been better in my opinion as a mixed climb.

And, it appears that part of this WAS climbed trad--no one has yet mentioned the stacked pins on P2: A Leeper Z with another pin stacked, in a horizontal as you move right . Sep 13, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This climb still has some loose stuff on it. I took a 25 footer as I was approaching the P1 anchor, when a foot broke off. Fun line, that should get better as it cleans up. Be careful... Aug 15, 2004
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Hunky Monkey is a good addition to Lost Angel Wall. Although slightly over-graded and over-bolted; it's high-quality and will clean up w/ traffic. A couple key flakes on the p3 crux headwall were flexing and about to snap, but it shouldn't change the grade since other ample holds exist. Really only a 2 pitch climb -- it's easy to combine p1/2 and p3/4 since the 2nd and 4th pitches are way short, make sure to bring enough draws if you do this. Overall, a fun route. Jul 21, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
An excellent climb; on a par with its neighbor Autumn. If you don't have time for the whole climb, just do the first pitch: steep, enjoyable climbing that comes in around 10a or 10b. The second pitch also seems to be about 10a, with the crux right off the belay. The third pitch has two crux sections: the hand and finger crack, and the upper slab. Both are solid 11. The fourth pitch overhang crux felt about mid-range 10; easier if you're tall.

One of the finest climbs I've done in Upper Dream Canyon. Jul 15, 2004
John Fulwider
  5.10a
John Fulwider  
  5.10a
Lon Black set up a top route for me and my group on this, the best route I've yet climbed in my first outdoor season. It has all the moves I like to do: laybacks, sidepulls, mantles, and even a combination heel-hook and mantle underneath and to the right of the roof about three-quarters of the way up the first pitch.

The route is more mentally challenging than physically challenging, which I like, because I don't have the finger strength yet to do the crimpy stuff. The holds are just deliciously positive once you find them. You have to look hard, but there's usually a comfortable position from which to do so.

Did I mention you get to listen to the rushing stream while you climb? Wonderful! Highly recommended.

If I were on lead I'd want a two-foot runner for one of the clips near the top, as well as one piece of supplemental pro to protect the long reach over the roof. But I can't stand falling on lead, so I always overdo the pro.

Ensure you have a rope bag or tarp, otherwise your rope may get wet -- you have to belay from right next to the water. Jul 15, 2004
Tom Painter  
 
Thanks for posting the photo Lon!

Just to clarify, Hunky Monkey starts just left of the direct start to Divination (12a) - see the descriptions of Divination, Divination Direct, and Dynomonometer (frequently confused for Divination). I keep meaning to take a camera into Dream and shoot a photo so that we can clarify the new and used routes. Jun 29, 2004
Lon Black  
 
Fun climb with various moves. I've done it with two people so far, and they agreed it was sweet. I found out today that the end of the third pitch really sucks in the rain.

By the way, it isn't just left of Divination. It is just right of Autumn. From what I could tell, it looks like there's another line in between Hunky Monkey and Divination. Jun 25, 2004
Scott Hudson
  5.11c
Scott Hudson  
  5.11c
You can just barely avoid the water to get on this route as of 6/23/04. A lot of fun and varied climbing on this. The crux 3rd pitch is definitely well protected and hard. The "delicate" face moves after the steep section are amazingly thin. I agree that this one will be a classic after some more traffic cleans it up a bit. Jun 24, 2004