Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Tom Painter (1st pitch), 2003
Page Views: 8,370 total · 44/month
Shared By: Tom Painter on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Hunky Monkey starts out of the bank of the creek in the right-facing dihedral right of the first pitch of Autumn and just left of the first pitch of Divination (more specifically just left of the direct start to Divination).

P1: climb a right-facing dihedral to ledge (.10d, 12 bolts - ~ 90').

P2: go straight off of belay up into short, right-facing dihedral to large, left-sloping ledge (.10d, ~6 bolts - ~ 50').

P3: continute up the large, left-sloping ledge to black-streaked bolted headwall, climb intricately up the headwall to hands/fingers crack, go over the headwall into a scoop, and make delicate face moves above to anchor on the prow (.11b/c, 9 bolts - ~ 90').

P4: strike out along a prow to left-facing dihedral and onto steep headwall above (.10d/.11a, 6 bolts - ~60').

A 70m rope is questionable for a rap. It is better to bring 2 ropes or walkoff.

Presently, it needs further cleaning on upper pitches. After some usage, this will be a Dream Canyon classic.

Protection

Well bolted - 15 draws more than sufficient. You can place a #1 Tech Friend between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the first pitch to protect the easy move to the 3rd. Ring bolt anchors, rap possible at each station.

Photos