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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 1,311 total, 6/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Heads up left leaning dihedral/ramp on easy but exposed terrain to 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2 heads up short, steep corner (crux) and then takes long easy corner to top of wall (between the South summit and main summit).

Protection

Standard rack....double bolt anchor....huge boulder to sling at top.

Photos

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goingUp
over here
 
goingUp   over here
 
Two pitches, stopping on the ledge above the 'Signs of Life' anchors, makes for a great belay ledge to hang out on; in addition, lots of space to build an anchor in the crack before the 'crux'. It provided two cruising, trad pitches with the crux, just off that ledge moving left into the massive dihedral above. The dihedral can be climbed straight up at a very easy 5.5 and protects with a few #1 Aliens (or change directions and climb the last pitch of 'Zenotropia' ,10/c (the face on the right of the two bolt anchor {no rings}). Like the rest of the wall, a walk off finish. Sep 20, 2014
Phill T
  5.6
Phill T  
  5.6
Quite the simple lead. Was my first trad lead. Really easy to concentrate on finding good placements and not worry about falling at all. I'd put it at a 5.6 slab. May 5, 2008
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
  5.6
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
  5.6
This was kind of a let-down. I knew it was a bit over-rated, but most of the climb is 5.4 (albeit an enjoyable 5.4) with 2-move 5.6 crux. Takes gear like crazy. Also, the two-bolt anchor is "after" the crux, not before it. This would be a great beginner lead as the climbing is moderate and the gear plentiful. Sep 10, 2006
I climbed this route the other day. It is definitely not 5.8. There's maybe one 5.7 move on the climb. It is worth the climb to finish with the last pitch of Zentropa however. If you're looking for a good trad lead, I wouldn't recommend this one. Sep 25, 2005
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
I'll second that opinion and go a little further... To paraphrase Gerry Roach's view of climbing grades: "5.7 is hard, 5.8 I feel like I'm falling, 5.9 I am falling". I'd have to say this climb was a 5.6! I did enjoy this climb, the pro is great, the "crux" is a hand crack that is sinker; a good option for a first trad lead even.... Jun 12, 2002
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
I would say this route is not 5.8. Maybe 5.7+ or so, it is a fun little route and protects very well. The "crux" is very short and makes this a great route for the beginning 5.8 leader. Apr 9, 2002