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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter & Colleen Greene, 1997.
Page Views: 757 total, 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is another little trad line on the right side of Lost Angel. Weird name...till you go when it's too warm. It's submitted due to a clarification effort on this area.

Follow a right-facing dihedral to the right of Disneyland past a couple steeper bits. You can belay at 90 ft. Continue up to the point where you can go right (easier) or left (steeper) crux with good jams. Best to face right. A bit scratchy. On the lighter side of a star. 0.83 stars.

Location

Right of Disneyland, on the right side of Lost Angel, just down from Wake Up Wall.

Protection

Aliens, wires, Camalots #1-4.

Photos

- No Photos -
Regarding the name of the route: I led this route on-sight with Colleen Greene on a very warm mid-summer day. Above the final hard parts we came upon two young men, on what they must have thought was a secluded ledge. They were completely naked and I would rather not commit to print what they were doing with their hard parts (weenies).

As some of you will recall, Upper Dream Canyon was a well-known nude hot spot for the gay community...until Bob Horan and I bolted the shit out of the place and publicized the really excellent first routes in 1996. So the gay guys have largely surrendered their turf and the climbers have taken over...something like the rise and fall of the Roman Empire...perhaps a bad analogy. May 7, 2007