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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Rossiter
Page Views: 6,776 total, 33/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This one is the [third] farthest left route on Zen Garden Wall, the far left and upper part of Lost Angel. Scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor...fun area to practice jamming and slabs....

Protection

Light rack to #1 Camalot...HB offsets useful for seam...2 bolts on blank face at top...2 bolt anchor for TR or belay.

Photos

My comment from the route to the left of Time Travel called Night Grooves...

"The last bolt on this route can be easily clipped from Time Traveler. On one hand the FA party has altered the character of an existing route. On the other hand, Time Traveler now actually does have two bolts, instead of the original one bolt, so all the incorrect guidebook information stating that the route has two bolts is now correct. Kind of a conundrum." Jun 6, 2014
JulianG  
Great climb, old school 5.9 that is well-protected. That is more like 75 feet in length. There is only one bolt on the climb after the crux runout easy climbing to the anchor. The book description mentioned two, but I couldn't find the second one. It is located across the gully from the A Brief History of Time that is also 5.9 (much easier). May 23, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I found this route fun, but it is not very long, the hard climbing is the first 40 feet or so. High quality, though. Jun 5, 2006
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
Correction to the above description: There is only one bolt on the slab above the seam. Jun 28, 2004
Matt Bauman  
 
Zengarden wall is pretty much exactly across the Dream dome gully from Gully washer route on Dream dome.....you scramble down towards a large pine that is in a small notch at the base of a clean lower angled face (below this is very mossy rock) and to the left of the 3rd pitch of Strange cargo. You can also stay left at the top of DReam dome gully trail and look for a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the lower angled slab .... rappel 60 feet into the notch with the big pine (2 bolt station in this notch opposite the start of Time traveler, an obvious hand crack that heads straight up from the large tree). Rossiters book shows a picture of it and has a good description. Jun 7, 2001
Matt, or someone, can you provide a better description of how to find Zen Garden wall? I have only found it once and it was by accident, but have come up short when I've gone looking for it, from the rim that is. I assume I can get over to it by starting Strange Cargo, or whichever of those 11s is the leftmost. Thanks. KB Jun 6, 2001
A great route, and an excellent place, as noted, to practice cracks and slab climbing. You can also TR the slab right off the ledge to the left of Time Traveler (10?). Jun 6, 2001