Type: Trad, TR
FA: Rossiter
Page Views: 7,018 total · 32/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This one is the third farthest left route on Zen Garden Wall (or second to the right, just right of the shiny bolts of Night Grooves.  Zen Garden is the far left and upper part of Lost Angel, which you access from up high: scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor...fun area to practice jamming and slabs....

Protection

Light rack to #1 Camalot...HB offsets useful for seam...2 bolts on blank face at top...2 bolt anchor for TR or belay.

Photos

A great route, and an excellent place, as noted, to practice cracks and slab climbing. You can also TR the slab right off the ledge to the left of Time Traveler (10?). Jun 6, 2001
Matt, or someone, can you provide a better description of how to find Zen Garden wall? I have only found it once and it was by accident, but have come up short when I've gone looking for it, from the rim that is. I assume I can get over to it by starting Strange Cargo, or whichever of those 11s is the leftmost. Thanks. KB Jun 6, 2001
Matt Bauman
  5.9
Matt Bauman  
  5.9
Zengarden wall is pretty much exactly across the Dream dome gully from Gully washer route on Dream dome.....you scramble down towards a large pine that is in a small notch at the base of a clean lower angled face (below this is very mossy rock) and to the left of the 3rd pitch of Strange cargo. You can also stay left at the top of DReam dome gully trail and look for a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the lower angled slab .... rappel 60 feet into the notch with the big pine (2 bolt station in this notch opposite the start of Time traveler, an obvious hand crack that heads straight up from the large tree). Rossiters book shows a picture of it and has a good description. Jun 7, 2001
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
Correction to the above description: There is only one bolt on the slab above the seam. Jun 28, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I found this route fun, but it is not very long, the hard climbing is the first 40 feet or so. High quality, though. Jun 5, 2006
Great climb, old school 5.9 that is well-protected. That is more like 75 feet in length. There is only one bolt on the climb after the crux runout easy climbing to the anchor. The book description mentioned two, but I couldn't find the second one. It is located across the gully from the A Brief History of Time that is also 5.9 (much easier). May 23, 2011
My comment from the route to the left of Time Travel called Night Grooves...

"The last bolt on this route can be easily clipped from Time Traveler. On one hand the FA party has altered the character of an existing route. On the other hand, Time Traveler now actually does have two bolts, instead of the original one bolt, so all the incorrect guidebook information stating that the route has two bolts is now correct. Kind of a conundrum." Jun 6, 2014