Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches |
FA: | Richard Rossiter & Gail Effron, 1997. |
Page Views: | 1,418 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Chris Cavallaro on Sep 18, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description
Begin about 200 feet down and left from the high point of the approach ramp.
P1. Start at a bolt or climb a hand crack ten feet to the right. Gain a finger crack that leads to a short headwall with three bolts (crux). On the last bolt, place a long sling, climb up and right along a ramp and gain a two-bolt anchor.
P2. Climb the second pitch of Long Dong Dihedral (to the left) and belay at a two-bolt anchor after 50 feet.
P3. Follow seven bolts and a finger crack (Stoppers) up through the middle of the NW face of the south tower. (10c 80 ft.) The bolt on the summit is bent so you'll need a few pieces to anchor on the summit.
The first pitch provides 5.9 trad, and great 5.11 sport. The last provides solid 5.10 moves with great exposure.
P1. Start at a bolt or climb a hand crack ten feet to the right. Gain a finger crack that leads to a short headwall with three bolts (crux). On the last bolt, place a long sling, climb up and right along a ramp and gain a two-bolt anchor.
P2. Climb the second pitch of Long Dong Dihedral (to the left) and belay at a two-bolt anchor after 50 feet.
P3. Follow seven bolts and a finger crack (Stoppers) up through the middle of the NW face of the south tower. (10c 80 ft.) The bolt on the summit is bent so you'll need a few pieces to anchor on the summit.
The first pitch provides 5.9 trad, and great 5.11 sport. The last provides solid 5.10 moves with great exposure.
Fort Collins, CO
Unfortunately, with the key hold now gone, the quality of the route is diminished. The rock is still as good as before (better now that the apparently fragile hold is gone), but the route is very inconsistent in difficulty now.
I'm calling this 11d, but it may be harder. It is way harder than The Deep (11c) which I got clean earlier in the day, and way harder than Sargasso Sea (11c/d/12a), which I got with a few hangs last year. But it's also a different kind of climbing. Crimpy and steep rather than technical slab moves.
Note that above the crux it is a long but easy (5.4?) runout on a slab to the anchors. Maybe 30'. If you move left on the slab it's really pretty easy, and gets easier and more positive the higher you go. Sep 8, 2004
San Francisco, CA
Boulder, CO
Boulder, Colorado