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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Josh Wharton, Jacob Fuerst, and Madaleine Sorkin, 3/25/14
Page Views: 1,352 total, 30/month
Shared By: j wharton on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Podophobia is a cool pitch if you like techy slab climbing. The grade is an early guesstimate. It might feel easier if you're a tech master, or harder if you've been hanging out at the gym too much.

Edit 1/25/15: I've decided to upgrade this from 12+ to 13a. Seems like people are finding it significantly harder than Arch Angel, and I suspect more folks will be interested in trying it if it's rated 13a.

Solo up a dirty 5.7 seam to a high first bolt just above the obvious ledge system that splits the wall, or climb a cleaner 5.9 slab with one bolt to the left. A few bolts lead up into the obvious roof feature. Undercling rightward on somewhat flaky rock, until it is possible to pull over the roof (this happens a bit farther right than you might think). Here things clean up. Follow techy slab climbing up and right, with a cool finishing sequence at the second to last bolt. Eventually gain the 2 bolt anchor shared with the Arch Angel extension.

Apologies for the schizophrenic bolting. This section of the wall had some random exploration bolts, and I felt it was better to leave what was there and add what was needed rather than drill more bolts just to make very minor adjustments. I'd recommend putting long slings on bolts 3 and 5 to help alleviate the issue, and also ignore the second two black bolts in the roof. (I'll try to remove these at some point.)

Enjoy!

Location

It is the first route to the right of Arch Angel. You can toprope, or hang draws on the majority of the route from Arch Angel's anchor.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Agree w/ Scott, really sweet moves, even though I didn't finish the entire route (decided to bail a few bolts above the roof w/ feet on fire). The face is still a bit dirty, w/ hard to find holds, making the climb a bit "exploratory" in nature. I probably don't have good slab technique anymore, but just the moves below/through the roof felt like a sandbagged 12+ in the Platte, let alone in Boulder Canyon. Sep 28, 2014
Sweet route! Cool variety of hard moves, some powerful pulls under and over the roof and some tech-9 slabbing up high... felt 2-3 letter grades harder than Archangel. May 16, 2014