Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Josh Wharton, Jacob Fuerst, and Madaleine Sorkin, 3/25/14|
|Page Views:||1,959 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||j wharton on Mar 25, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Edit 1/25/15: I've decided to upgrade this from 12+ to 13a. Seems like people are finding it significantly harder than Arch Angel, and I suspect more folks will be interested in trying it if it's rated 13a.
Solo up a dirty 5.7 seam to a high first bolt just above the obvious ledge system that splits the wall, or climb a cleaner 5.9 slab with one bolt to the left. A few bolts lead up into the obvious roof feature. Undercling rightward on somewhat flaky rock, until it is possible to pull over the roof (this happens a bit farther right than you might think). Here things clean up. Follow techy slab climbing up and right, with a cool finishing sequence at the second to last bolt. Eventually gain the 2 bolt anchor shared with the Arch Angel extension.
Apologies for the schizophrenic bolting. This section of the wall had some random exploration bolts, and I felt it was better to leave what was there and add what was needed rather than drill more bolts just to make very minor adjustments. I'd recommend putting long slings on bolts 3 and 5 to help alleviate the issue, and also ignore the second two black bolts in the roof. (I'll try to remove these at some point.)