Type: | Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Adams & Hare, 2002 |
Page Views: | 5,086 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Jul 26, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and Awakenings. Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10. Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.
Start in the same spot as Rock Odysseyand Awakenings, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.
P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.
P2: Actually starts at the Awakenings belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.
P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.
P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.
Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.
The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...
Start in the same spot as Rock Odysseyand Awakenings, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.
P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.
P2: Actually starts at the Awakenings belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.
P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.
P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.
Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.
The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...
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