Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 1,382 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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Start 25' right of Boy's World, by a big pine tree next to the rock. Climb up to a small roof, traverse left, then over the roof (crux) and up a slab to the top. The crux involves a long reach to a thin crack above the roof; easier if you're tall.


7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is about 60' long.


The first time I saw this route, I said, "what a waste of bolts." I finally climbed this route the other day and it's actually pretty good. Excellent rock with a very short (height dependent) crux. Probably more like 5.10 rather than 5.11a, but I'm 6'2" with a positive 3" ape index... Nov 10, 2004
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
Hey, I'm 5'5" and it didn't feel reachy to me! It was a matter of body positioning and balance to be able to step up on a decent edge, then reach over slightly to the left with my right hand to a good horizontal edge. Fun moves, but they're over pretty quickly. Seemed a little easier than 5.11a. Aug 14, 2005
I also thought the rating was a bit soft. Felt like 5.10 to me but what do I know, my first 11a on lead. I can say if you are looking for an ego boost to hit this route. Its only reachy if you don't stand up on the ledge.I thought the bolts were really well placed and I had to wiggle around a bit to find the sequence. But, once you do "the move" welcome to 5.6-ville. Fun route and worth doing! Aug 15, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
I echo Brenda and Jason's comments; the route seemed more like 10b than 11a the second time I did it. I found it easier than Drop Zone (rated 10b, but maybe harder). The original 11a rating came from the route description on Vaino Kodas' website vainokodas.com/climbing/cor…

The key is to keep traversing left on crimpy edges and foot smears until you can move up, snag a good handhold, and establish your feet on good edges below the bulge. If you get your feet high enough, it isn't much of a reach to get over the bulge. Aug 15, 2005
The crux is getting stood up on the wide ledge under the bulge... from there, the next hold is within easy reach. But if you neglect your feet, and that ledge, and try to just move up on the crimpers, you're in for some tough moves. Aug 16, 2005
Fun climb...10d ish? Got the onsight thanks to the graces of my partner Jason. Slabby and delicate climbing...even the start is a bit tricky. Nice sequence through the 4th bolt.

This area has great exposure as it overlooks the canyon, yet it still has nice protection from the winds. Nov 7, 2006
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
I was climbing with some friends this weekend, and I got lost trying to find the gully for the Lost Angle (something I do every other time I visit Dream Canyon). And saw this route while hiking back up the gully. So, we went ahead and got on this one. It's a fun little route, well-protected at the crux, and is really worth doing!

My only criticism would be the first bolt seems a little close to the ground.

Seems like this could be a good warm up for the routes further down the rock. May 31, 2007
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
Great route to try leading if it's a little above your limit. It's well bolted, and it shares a final bolt and the anchors with the 5.6, so you can easily get your draws back if you can't get up it. Jul 5, 2015
Logan Collins
Boulder, CO
Logan Collins   Boulder, CO
Fun route. I think I left some green moccasin Evolv 'Addicts' at the base of this climb. If someone finds them, please text me at (908)-246-0826. I would really appreciate it. Jul 28, 2017