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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack (Light of Day?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 1,362 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start 25' right of Boy's World, by a big pine tree next to the rock. Climb up to a small roof, traverse left, then over the roof (crux) and up a slab to the top. The crux involves a long reach to a thin crack above the roof; easier if you're tall.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is about 60' long.

Photos

The first time I saw this route, I said, "what a waste of bolts." I finally climbed this route the other day and it's actually pretty good. Excellent rock with a very short (height dependent) crux. Probably more like 5.10 rather than 5.11a, but I'm 6'2" with a positive 3" ape index... Nov 10, 2004
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
Hey, I'm 5'5" and it didn't feel reachy to me! It was a matter of body positioning and balance to be able to step up on a decent edge, then reach over slightly to the left with my right hand to a good horizontal edge. Fun moves, but they're over pretty quickly. Seemed a little easier than 5.11a. Aug 14, 2005
I also thought the rating was a bit soft. Felt like 5.10 to me but what do I know, my first 11a on lead. I can say if you are looking for an ego boost to hit this route. Its only reachy if you don't stand up on the ledge.I thought the bolts were really well placed and I had to wiggle around a bit to find the sequence. But, once you do "the move" welcome to 5.6-ville. Fun route and worth doing! Aug 15, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I echo Brenda and Jason's comments; the route seemed more like 10b than 11a the second time I did it. I found it easier than Drop Zone (rated 10b, but maybe harder). The original 11a rating came from the route description on Vaino Kodas' website vainokodas.com/climbing/cor…

The key is to keep traversing left on crimpy edges and foot smears until you can move up, snag a good handhold, and establish your feet on good edges below the bulge. If you get your feet high enough, it isn't much of a reach to get over the bulge. Aug 15, 2005
The crux is getting stood up on the wide ledge under the bulge... from there, the next hold is within easy reach. But if you neglect your feet, and that ledge, and try to just move up on the crimpers, you're in for some tough moves. Aug 16, 2005
Fun climb...10d ish? Got the onsight thanks to the graces of my partner Jason. Slabby and delicate climbing...even the start is a bit tricky. Nice sequence through the 4th bolt.

This area has great exposure as it overlooks the canyon, yet it still has nice protection from the winds. Nov 7, 2006
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
I was climbing with some friends this weekend, and I got lost trying to find the gully for the Lost Angle (something I do every other time I visit Dream Canyon). And saw this route while hiking back up the gully. So, we went ahead and got on this one. It's a fun little route, well-protected at the crux, and is really worth doing!

My only criticism would be the first bolt seems a little close to the ground.

Seems like this could be a good warm up for the routes further down the rock. May 31, 2007
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
 
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
 
Great route to try leading if it's a little above your limit. It's well bolted, and it shares a final bolt and the anchors with the 5.6, so you can easily get your draws back if you can't get up it. Jul 5, 2015
Logan Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Logan Collins   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Fun route. I think I left some green moccasin Evolv 'Addicts' at the base of this climb. If someone finds them, please text me at (908)-246-0826. I would really appreciate it. Jul 28, 2017

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