Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Johnny and Stella Adams, 2002
Page Views: 1,646 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tom Painter on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Digital Dilemna starts ~10' left of Dyno Arete through a blocky bulge and runs up the slab to a scooped dihedral (2 bolt anchor). Established by Johnny and Stella Adams, the 55 year old retirees from England, the route is characterized by its variety of necessary techniques. It is a fun route with a devious crux. "Yes, your foot will stay on it ...."

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

I say this because the second clip on the crux face is spicy. Shameful beta: As you start going up the crux face and you get to the odd rounded spot (as the crack stops running vertical and gets really thin) where you can't get a lock but you can stick your middle finger in somewhat, try to do this with your left hand rather than your right hand. My partner and I made the same mistake using the right hand which becomes kinda obvious after one more move. Using the left middle finger allows one to move a touch farther right and utilize a couple other holds. Sep 22, 2004
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.12a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.12a
Maybe I'm being soft with my 12a rating, but I thought this was THIN. I have no advice for the crux. However, I have some advice for the section just below the anchors. You end up in this dihedral and the last bolt is placed so that it is very difficult to clip from inside the dihedral unless you are 6'5". Don't worry about clipping this from below. Reach across to a crimper on the left face of the dihedral, and then jump for the horn on the arete. Your feet will swing, but it's a solid hold. Do a partial mantel and then clip the last bolt from there. Then, complete the awkward mantel, match your feet onto the mantel, and then you can tenuously stand and clip the anchors. It's a great finish and a nice burly move which complements the super thin face moves at the crux. I'd also like to point out that 'dilemma' has no 'n'. Jul 7, 2005
Tom Painter
  5.12a
Tom Painter  
  5.12a
OK, make it .12a - that's what everyone has said since I posted it at .11d, so there it is. It is thin either way and Johnny glissed it, so it could be pretty much anything! Aug 20, 2006
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
Blocky roof moves on thin-ish hands, underclings, crimps, layback to mantel, stemming, balancy footwork, step-through. In short, variety galore. Lotsa 11 moves and one gen-u-ine crux. Awesome climbing and well-bolted. Apr 29, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?). Apr 13, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. Fun and interesting face climbing that keeps you on your toes. Yaay! Jul 12, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Great pitch with a fun vertical start, a hard crux in the middle & an interesting balancy stand up to finish. As for the grade, I will stick with the .11d rating this climb used to have. I am rarely one to down rate, but this climb is much less sustained & easier than "Awakenings"(.12a/b) or "Earth Voyage". It felt easier than "Mudshark" too. I have climbed this route four times since 2008, but I never seem to get it wired, because it's always more than a year between ascents. After a perfect rest ledge,the difficulties kick in at 4th bolt to reach a thin, vertical seam. The crux at 5th bolt is a hard, thin crack move with poor feet but soon ends at a good jug. The climbing to the last bolt is much easier. Sep 9, 2015