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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Johnny and Stella Adams, 2002
Page Views: 1,542 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tom Painter on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Digital Dilemna starts ~10' left of Dyno Arete through a blocky bulge and runs up the slab to a scooped dihedral (2 bolt anchor). Established by Johnny and Stella Adams, the 55 year old retirees from England, the route is characterized by its variety of necessary techniques. It is a fun route with a devious crux. "Yes, your foot will stay on it ...."

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Great pitch with a fun vertical start, a hard crux in the middle & an interesting balancy stand up to finish. As for the grade, I will stick with the .11d rating this climb used to have. I am rarely one to down rate, but this climb is much less sustained & easier than "Awakenings"(.12a/b) or "Earth Voyage". It felt easier than "Mudshark" too. I have climbed this route four times since 2008, but I never seem to get it wired, because it's always more than a year between ascents. After a perfect rest ledge,the difficulties kick in at 4th bolt to reach a thin, vertical seam. The crux at 5th bolt is a hard, thin crack move with poor feet but soon ends at a good jug. The climbing to the last bolt is much easier. Sep 9, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. Fun and interesting face climbing that keeps you on your toes. Yaay! Jul 12, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?). Apr 13, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
Blocky roof moves on thin-ish hands, underclings, crimps, layback to mantel, stemming, balancy footwork, step-through. In short, variety galore. Lotsa 11 moves and one gen-u-ine crux. Awesome climbing and well-bolted. Apr 29, 2013
Tom Painter  
 
OK, make it .12a - that's what everyone has said since I posted it at .11d, so there it is. It is thin either way and Johnny glissed it, so it could be pretty much anything! Aug 20, 2006
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.12a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.12a
Maybe I'm being soft with my 12a rating, but I thought this was THIN. I have no advice for the crux. However, I have some advice for the section just below the anchors. You end up in this dihedral and the last bolt is placed so that it is very difficult to clip from inside the dihedral unless you are 6'5". Don't worry about clipping this from below. Reach across to a crimper on the left face of the dihedral, and then jump for the horn on the arete. Your feet will swing, but it's a solid hold. Do a partial mantel and then clip the last bolt from there. Then, complete the awkward mantel, match your feet onto the mantel, and then you can tenuously stand and clip the anchors. It's a great finish and a nice burly move which complements the super thin face moves at the crux. I'd also like to point out that 'dilemma' has no 'n'. Jul 7, 2005
I say this because the second clip on the crux face is spicy. Shameful beta: As you start going up the crux face and you get to the odd rounded spot (as the crack stops running vertical and gets really thin) where you can't get a lock but you can stick your middle finger in somewhat, try to do this with your left hand rather than your right hand. My partner and I made the same mistake using the right hand which becomes kinda obvious after one more move. Using the left middle finger allows one to move a touch farther right and utilize a couple other holds. Sep 22, 2004