Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 948 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Oct 31, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a great but much harder finish to Hunky Monkey. Do the first two pitches of Hunky Monkey, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b. The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.

The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing. The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.

Location

This is a variation to Hunky Monkey. Go left after the second pitch of Hunky Monkey to an obvious, bolted wall.

Protection

Both pitches are well bolted with good anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11c
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11c
Thanks for posting, we climbed this route betaless and so we weren't sure exactly which variation we'd done.

Last two pitches brought out some technical, smeary stems that felt insecure but are very well-protected and fun. The trick to the fourth pitch crux is to be tall, but my partner (shorty) somehow pulled through it with some invisi-crimp micro-pinch bullshit. Whatever works, I guess. Aug 3, 2013
There are also variations to the first two pitches that were installed around the same time (Dan Hare et al. I think). On the first pitch, step left around the 6th bolt from Hunky Monkey and follow some slightly devious face climbing to the anchor on Hunky Monkey. On the second, step left after the second bolt, and climb directly through the roof. Aug 3, 2013
This might be last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer, described in Bob D’s guidebook at 11d. Quality. Jun 24, 2018