Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 1,612 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the south-facing Warm Up Wall on Lost Angel. It is left of the double dihedrals of Jungle Blues and Spider. Rage goes through two large roofs, the second via a splitter hand crack angling up and right. The anchors are visible from the ground and so are the three bolts on the first roof. The crack through the second roof is very obvious.

Start with some steep moves on good holds through the first roof. A small nut between bolt 1 and 2 will reduce your chances of hitting the ground. After the third bolt, there is a difficult mantle and long reach up to a good hold. This will be very difficult for short people. After the mantle move, continue up an easier shallow dihedral for 10 feet to a good rest at the base of the crack. This is where the business starts. Plug in some good gear and jam small hands up and right through the wildly overhanging crack with very little for the feet. After about 20 ft. of very strenuous jamming, switch into a left-angling crack on good holds and swing up and left to the anchor. Rap or lower off.

Note: The description of this route in Rossiter's Falcon guide shows five bolts and a topo that does not fit with the route very well...??

Protection

There are three bolts down low, also bring some small wired stoppers and a #2, a #3, and a #4 Trango U-stem cams (#2 Metolius and 0.5 and 0.75 B.D. Camalot) 2 bolt anchor.

Photos