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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 1,259 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the south-facing Warm Up Wall on Lost Angel. It is left of the double dihedrals of Jungle Blues and Spider. Rage goes through two large roofs, the second via a splitter hand crack angling up and right. The anchors are visible from the ground and so are the three bolts on the first roof. The crack through the second roof is very obvious.

Start with some steep moves on good holds through the first roof. A small nut between bolt 1 and 2 will reduce your chances of hitting the ground. After the third bolt, there is a difficult mantle and long reach up to a good hold. This will be very difficult for short people. After the mantle move, continue up an easier shallow dihedral for 10 feet to a good rest at the base of the crack. This is where the business starts. Plug in some good gear and jam small hands up and right through the wildly overhanging crack with very little for the feet. After about 20 ft. of very strenuous jamming, switch into a left-angling crack on good holds and swing up and left to the anchor. Rap or lower off.

Note: The description of this route in Rossiter's Falcon guide shows five bolts and a topo that does not fit with the route very well...??

Protection

There are three bolts down low, also bring some small wired stoppers and a #2, a #3, and a #4 Trango U-stem cams (#2 Metolius and 0.5 and 0.75 B.D. Camalot) 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

climberboy2
  5.11a/b
climberboy2  
  5.11a/b
Very nice climb...varied route from tough slab to powerful overhang moves. Nov 18, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
The photo above should clear up the confusion. The route is as Richard Rossiter describes it above. The bolts are all there and in excellent condition--no sign of chopped bolts. 6 bolts plus the anchors.

Angle right past a bolt and onto a slab. Make the 11a (according to the topo) move to clip the 2nd bolt. I would have preferred that bolt to be 1 foot lower so it could be clipped prior to making this move. Over an easier bulge (9?) on big holds to the 3rd bolt and a good rest. Step left and over the ceiling (2 bolts, plus, I think, a bolt above after you finish). The ceiling is harder than it at first looks. Finger jams that look good aren't. After figuring out a couple of trick moves, it seemed more reasonable. Above the ceiling, run it out about 25 feet up a 5.5(??) crack/corner to the anchors, or bring a very light rack to protect this section. Oct 12, 2003
Oops. Meant to add this but had another senior moment.

Bryson -- if the bolts on RATM haven't been chopped, it looks like you did an interesting, mostly trad FA. Apr 28, 2003
I think Richard and Karl are right. I climbed Rage Against the Machine, Drop Zone, and Rush in September 1999. My notes for RATM read "Begin with some thin moves on a steep wall followed by easier climbing to an intimidating bulge/roof split by twin cracks. The roof was as strenuous as it was intimidating. Easier climbing above (2 1/2 Friend optional) to the anchors on Rush. 6 bolts, 65'." That's pretty close to the route description in "Rock Climbing: Boulder." And, like Karl, I wouldn't climb a runout .11b crux. Apr 28, 2003
Bryson.Rage is the first route left of Jungle Blues.I am not certain we are talking about the same route. I think of Rage as having just the one roof that is pierced by a crack. I did place a bolt underneath and just above this roof. I have not been back to the route in several years, so I am not sure about the bolts now. My recollection is of fine rock and a sunny wall. Glad you enjoyed it. Apr 21, 2003
It's possible that I was not on the intended route because I didn't see any evidence of chopped bolts and to climb the upper crack without gear would be hair rasing to say the least. Richard, does the description of the route and the moves sound like the route you established? Mar 29, 2003
Yeah, the description in R's guide vs. this one is a bit different. I climbed it last summer and really felt no need to place gear and I am definitely not someone who would run out 5.11 (This was my first season climbing at that grade).

The last few moves were very thin and it seemed possible that there was some chipping to enhance a hold or two? Any thoughts?

Great route but could have done without running into the "sunbathers" below. Feb 21, 2003
I considered this route to be a sport climb, as the only place I really needed gear was at the lip of the roof. I placed a bolt here and one higher up so that the climb could be done with just quickdraws. The reason these bolts were not found is that the route was likely vandalized. Also note that this area is called the Wake Up Wall...not Warm up Wall. Oct 6, 2002