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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 163 total, 1/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an enjoyable pitch just to the right of Killing in the Name, and on a par with that line in difficulty.

Location

The route is between Rush and Killing in the Name. In fact, you can clip the first bolt of Rush in a short right facing corner but move up and left in obvious cracks, instead of up the Rush slab.
A single rope is more than enough to lower from the anchors, as I believe is the case with all the routes.

Protection

A single set of finger- and hand-size gear is adequate, with a draw for a bolt at the bottom and anchors at the top.

Photos

Rich Farnham
  5.9
Rich Farnham  
  5.9
Some nice climbing on this one. We started at the very bottom of the wall, below the slab that you can traverse out on to from the right. It adds a 5.8/5.9 bulge that is worth doing, if a bit licheny.

I didn't read this description first, so I wasn't sure which way to go when I got to the final bulge and faced the two options George described above. The left option (apparently "Crack in the Wall") looked more straightforward, so I started that way, but as I started to pull the bulge, I realized that the large block (3'x3'?) visible in the photo might not be that well attached to the wall. I reversed the bulge and scoped it out - there appears to be a crack all the way around it. So I switched to the crack on the right, which turned out to have some of the most amazing/surprising huecos at the roof. Really cool and the recommended direction at this bulge.

I meant to look at the block more closely on the way down, but forgot. It could be fine, but be careful.

If you go to the right, save a #0.5 Camalot for after the bulge. The crack bottoms out for a bit, and that's the only piece that seemed to fit well for a while. Aug 18, 2015
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
There are two options going over the roof, either a weird slot on the right or a steep crack on the left. The climber in the photo appears to be straddling these two options, but it looks like he's headed for the left crack. The left crack is called a separate route in Rossiter's guide: "Crack In The Wall (10a)".

This climb is unusual in that there are several huecos on the face near that roof which make it easier. I was not expecting such face holds in granite and didn't see them until I got above them. Jun 5, 2006