Type: Trad
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 209 total · 1/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This is an enjoyable pitch just to the right of Killing in the Name, and on a par with that line in difficulty.

Location

The route is between Rush and Killing in the Name. In fact, you can clip the first bolt of Rush in a short right facing corner but move up and left in obvious cracks, instead of up the Rush slab.
A single rope is more than enough to lower from the anchors, as I believe is the case with all the routes.

Protection

A single set of finger- and hand-size gear is adequate, with a draw for a bolt at the bottom and anchors at the top.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
There are two options going over the roof, either a weird slot on the right or a steep crack on the left. The climber in the photo appears to be straddling these two options, but it looks like he's headed for the left crack. The left crack is called a separate route in Rossiter's guide: "Crack In The Wall (10a)".

This climb is unusual in that there are several huecos on the face near that roof which make it easier. I was not expecting such face holds in granite and didn't see them until I got above them. Jun 5, 2006
Rich Farnham
  5.9
Rich Farnham  
  5.9
Some nice climbing on this one. We started at the very bottom of the wall, below the slab that you can traverse out on to from the right. It adds a 5.8/5.9 bulge that is worth doing, if a bit licheny.

I didn't read this description first, so I wasn't sure which way to go when I got to the final bulge and faced the two options George described above. The left option (apparently "Crack in the Wall") looked more straightforward, so I started that way, but as I started to pull the bulge, I realized that the large block (3'x3'?) visible in the photo might not be that well attached to the wall. I reversed the bulge and scoped it out - there appears to be a crack all the way around it. So I switched to the crack on the right, which turned out to have some of the most amazing/surprising huecos at the roof. Really cool and the recommended direction at this bulge.

I meant to look at the block more closely on the way down, but forgot. It could be fine, but be careful.

If you go to the right, save a #0.5 Camalot for after the bulge. The crack bottoms out for a bit, and that's the only piece that seemed to fit well for a while. Aug 18, 2015