Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Moe Hershoff and Vaino Kodas, 2004
Page Views: 1,252 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start just right of Jungle Blues From Jupiter. Climb up to a short right-facing corner and then follow a series of bulges finishing with some sustained face climbing. An excellent pitch.

Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/cor… used with permission.

Protection

9 bolts and a small piece or two for the first corner. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

climberboy2
  5.12b/c
climberboy2  
  5.12b/c
This route is hard! It's the hardest route I've completed; roughly 12c. I TR'd the route twice after my partner Jason climbed the nearby 10b to drop the toprope. Despite a couple no-hands rests, the route is very sustained with hard 11 and easy 12 over and over throughout the route. The crux is definitely the little headwall midway up the route. Here a dyno is made off two sharp crimps and undercut feet...very tough. This route left my finger cut and bleeding. Once you power through the dyno, you're still left with lots of scary crimpers and edges above before reaching the anchors.

I'll be going back soon to try the lead! Nov 7, 2006
climberboy2
  5.12b/c
climberboy2  
  5.12b/c
I got on the sharp end today! Finished the lead today, but didn't get it clean yet, still fell at the crux...but I'll be back for the redpoint soon.

Can anyone else comment on the 12c rating? Nov 18, 2006
Pinklebear
  5.12c
Pinklebear  
  5.12c
12c. Very thin crux. Either try it on a cool day or wait till it's in the shade, if you value having skin on your fingertips. Upper slab is no pushover either. Great climb! Dec 2, 2017