Elevation: 7,269 ft
GPS: 40.008, -105.409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,472 total · 109/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.
K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
R. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

? Pirate Radio

Getting There

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious.  You will be going over Dream Dome, then Lost Angel, which has descents either side - you want the far one.  Look for a branch off the main path right before it hits a campsite, then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole.  If you get to the mine hole, you're too far - head back up.  The gully is fourth class - if you're using your hands much, you probably went too far.

Once half way down the gully, you can easily cross slabs to your left for a hundred hards and you'll get to the rock.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

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