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Elevation: 7,269 ft 2,216 m
GPS: 40.00755, -105.40897
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,251 total · 130/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.

B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.

C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.

F. Around Midnight, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts & pin.

G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.

J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.

K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.

ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.

M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.

O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.

P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.

R1. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.

R2. Serp du Soleil, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.

S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.

T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.

BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.

CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.

DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.

EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.

FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.

GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.

HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

? Pirate Radio

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious.  You will be going over Dream Dome, then Lost Angel, which has descents either side - you want the far one.  Look for a branch off the main path right before it hits a campsite, then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole.  If you get to the mine hole, you're too far - head back up.  The gully is fourth class - if you're using your hands much, you probably went too far.

Once half way down the gully, you can easily cross slabs to your left for a hundred hards and you'll get to the rock.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Weather Report
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Meltdown
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
Midnight Express
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Hack a Drone
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
After Midnight
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Jet Stream
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Hammer Down
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Pirate Radar
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Midnight Cowboy
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Voila
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Flake Out AKA Flake Roof
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Cirque du Soleil
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
 7
Grande Finale
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Geminae Cracks
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
After Hours Superpowers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Weather Report
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Meltdown
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Midnight Express
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hack a Drone
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
After Midnight
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jet Stream
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Hammer Down
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Pirate Radar
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Midnight Cowboy
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Voila
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Flake Out AKA Flake Roof
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Cirque du Soleil
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Grande Finale
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Geminae Cracks
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
After Hours Superpowers
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midnight Rock »

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