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Midnight Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Midnight Rock
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After Hours Superpowers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flake Out AKA Flake Roof S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hammer Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Midnight Express S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Serp du Soleil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Weather Report S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Elevation: | 7,269 ft |
| GPS: |
40.00755, -105.40897 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 36,733 total · 135/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.
A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.
A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.
L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):
A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.
K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
R1. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R2. Serp du Soleil, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
Upper Ledge L->R:
AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.
? Pirate Radio
Getting There
Once half way down the gully, you can easily cross slabs to your left for a hundred hards and you'll get to the rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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