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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Hours Superpowers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Description

There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.
K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
R. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

? Pirate Radio

Getting There

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious.  You will be going over Dream Dome, then Lost Angel, which has descents either side - you want the far one.  Look for a branch off the main path right before it hits a campsite, then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole.  If you get to the mine hole, you're too far - head back up.  The gully is fourth class - if you're using your hands much, you probably went too far.

Once half way down the gully, you can easily cross slabs to your left for a hundred hards and you'll get to the rock.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 42
Weather Report
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Meltdown
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Hack a Drone
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
Hammer Down
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Jet Stream
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 7
Midnight Cowboy
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Voila
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Cirque du Soleil
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Geminae Cracks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Weather Report
 42
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Meltdown
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hack a Drone
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hammer Down
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jet Stream
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Midnight Cowboy
 7
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Voila
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Cirque du Soleil
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Geminae Cracks
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midnight Rock »

Sun & Shade

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
Thanks! Aug 1, 2006
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun. Apr 7, 2013
Jon W
Longmont Colorado
Jon W   Longmont Colorado
Found some sandals here Sunday.... I'd like to get them back to the owner. Apr 17, 2018

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