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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.
K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
R. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.


Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio

Getting There

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weather Report
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meltdown
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hack a Drone
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammer Down
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Stream
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Cowboy
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Voila
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cirque du Soleil
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geminae Cracks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Weather Report 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Meltdown 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hack a Drone 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hammer Down 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jet Stream 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Midnight Cowboy 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Voila 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Cirque du Soleil 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Geminae Cracks 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midnight Rock »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun. Apr 7, 2013
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
Thanks! Aug 1, 2006

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