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Routes in Universal Crag

Dozey Brat V9-10 7C+
Dr. West, Millionaire V7+ 7A+ R
Dream Machine S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Equator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fighting Irish S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magna Headwall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Palm Pilot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Rapid Eye Movement V6 7A PG13
Switchback T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
X Marks The Start S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Description

This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.

L->R:

A. X Marks The Start, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
F. Equator, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Switchback , 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There

This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Universal Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Palm Pilot
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Palm Pilot
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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