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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Marcella and John Baldwin
Page Views: 4,144 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 7, 2004 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Description

This was at one time the leftmost route on Oceanic Wall, but there is now at least one other route further left. In the Rossiter guide it says, "To be bolted", so apparently at the time the guidebook was written this climb had not been bolted or lead.

Start left of The Deep below a shallow, A-shaped ceiling. The first bolt is maybe 15 feet up, but getting there is relatively easy with positive holds. Climb through the apex of the roof, move a bit left through a bulge and up to a short crack. The moves up the crack, using holds either left or right of the crack (or both) are hard and lead to a small stance at the crux. The next clip (if you're not really tall) is either difficult off of treacherous footholds, or you have to do the crux a few feet about the previous bolt and then make an easy clip. The crux moves involve some thin feet smears off of laybacks. Undercling up and right and make a long reach to a jug which is the left end of the ledge that angles up and left from The Deep. Join The Deep for the fun upper wall. The upper face is a bit runout but very secure due to big knobs where you need them.

Protection

Approximately 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few extra draws, since I didn't count the bolts.

Per Carl Schaefer: there are 7 bolts and 2 anchor bolts (one is just hangers without rings or chains).

Photos

B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
B. Smith   Denver, CO
 
I plugged a 0.75 in the small roof before the first bolt. Helped me get off the ground and felt much safer. Mar 19, 2017
Julia
 
Julia  
 
The sloper rail about halfway up is sweet. May 17, 2015
Brad Leneis
  5.10d
Brad Leneis  
  5.10d
This is a great little route, lots of really fun positions. Sep 14, 2014
Daniel Cohn  
 
Surprisingly fun route. It is hard to see the good stuff from the bottom. A #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot can be used in the steep section but is not necessary. The guidebook gave it 11a, but 10d is probably more accurate. May 22, 2011
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Nice, little route. Sep 2, 2010
In Your Dreams (July 20, 2001)- bolted (7 bolts), cleaned, and led by Marcella and John Baldwin. Apr 20, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Ugh. WAY too much info in the descript. Just follow the wandering bolts up left then off to the right and have a blast. And yes, this has been well bolted for at least a couple of years now.

A few, tense-y, strenuous 5.10 moves up near the top, especially if'n you're out of sequence...but easy enough to pull through. Apr 3, 2010
Josh M.
Golden, CO
Josh M.   Golden, CO
On the Oceanic Wall page, this route is listed "gear or TR," but here I see "Sport" and a recommendation for 10-12 QDs. Are there hangers/an anchor? Thanks! Jul 1, 2009
This is a fun climb. Some good finger tip lay back moves with tenuous smearing. There is an anchor now after the 7th? bolt. Jun 28, 2009