In Your Dreams
Avg: 2.5 from 120 votes
Routes in Oceanic Wall
|Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+|
|Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Marcella and John Baldwin|
|Page Views:||4,144 total, 26/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Sep 7, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis was at one time the leftmost route on Oceanic Wall, but there is now at least one other route further left. In the Rossiter guide it says, "To be bolted", so apparently at the time the guidebook was written this climb had not been bolted or lead.
Start left of The Deep below a shallow, A-shaped ceiling. The first bolt is maybe 15 feet up, but getting there is relatively easy with positive holds. Climb through the apex of the roof, move a bit left through a bulge and up to a short crack. The moves up the crack, using holds either left or right of the crack (or both) are hard and lead to a small stance at the crux. The next clip (if you're not really tall) is either difficult off of treacherous footholds, or you have to do the crux a few feet about the previous bolt and then make an easy clip. The crux moves involve some thin feet smears off of laybacks. Undercling up and right and make a long reach to a jug which is the left end of the ledge that angles up and left from The Deep. Join The Deep for the fun upper wall. The upper face is a bit runout but very secure due to big knobs where you need them.
ProtectionApproximately 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few extra draws, since I didn't count the bolts.
Per Carl Schaefer: there are 7 bolts and 2 anchor bolts (one is just hangers without rings or chains).