Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m) Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Marcella and John Baldwin
Page Views: 5,370 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 7, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This was at one time the leftmost route on Oceanic Wall, but there is now at least one other route further left. In the Rossiter guide it says, "To be bolted", so apparently at the time the guidebook was written this climb had not been bolted or lead.

Start left of The Deep below a shallow, A-shaped ceiling. The first bolt is maybe 15 feet up, but getting there is relatively easy with positive holds. Climb through the apex of the roof, move a bit left through a bulge and up to a short crack. The moves up the crack, using holds either left or right of the crack (or both) are hard and lead to a small stance at the crux. The next clip (if you're not really tall) is either difficult off of treacherous footholds, or you have to do the crux a few feet about the previous bolt and then make an easy clip. The crux moves involve some thin feet smears off of laybacks. Undercling up and right and make a long reach to a jug which is the left end of the ledge that angles up and left from The Deep. Join The Deep for the fun upper wall. The upper face is a bit runout but very secure due to big knobs where you need them.

Protection

Approximately 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few extra draws, since I didn't count the bolts.

Per Carl Schaefer: there are 7 bolts and 2 anchor bolts (one is just hangers without rings or chains).

Photos