Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Marcella and John Baldwin
Page Views: 4,667 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 7, 2004 with improvements by Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This was at one time the leftmost route on Oceanic Wall, but there is now at least one other route further left. In the Rossiter guide it says, "To be bolted", so apparently at the time the guidebook was written this climb had not been bolted or lead.

Start left of The Deep below a shallow, A-shaped ceiling. The first bolt is maybe 15 feet up, but getting there is relatively easy with positive holds. Climb through the apex of the roof, move a bit left through a bulge and up to a short crack. The moves up the crack, using holds either left or right of the crack (or both) are hard and lead to a small stance at the crux. The next clip (if you're not really tall) is either difficult off of treacherous footholds, or you have to do the crux a few feet about the previous bolt and then make an easy clip. The crux moves involve some thin feet smears off of laybacks. Undercling up and right and make a long reach to a jug which is the left end of the ledge that angles up and left from The Deep. Join The Deep for the fun upper wall. The upper face is a bit runout but very secure due to big knobs where you need them.


Approximately 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few extra draws, since I didn't count the bolts.

Per Carl Schaefer: there are 7 bolts and 2 anchor bolts (one is just hangers without rings or chains).


This is a fun climb. Some good finger tip lay back moves with tenuous smearing. There is an anchor now after the 7th? bolt. Jun 28, 2009
Josh M.
Golden, CO
Josh M.   Golden, CO
On the Oceanic Wall page, this route is listed "gear or TR," but here I see "Sport" and a recommendation for 10-12 QDs. Are there hangers/an anchor? Thanks! Jul 1, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Ugh. WAY too much info in the descript. Just follow the wandering bolts up left then off to the right and have a blast. And yes, this has been well bolted for at least a couple of years now.

A few, tense-y, strenuous 5.10 moves up near the top, especially if'n you're out of sequence...but easy enough to pull through. Apr 3, 2010
In Your Dreams (July 20, 2001)- bolted (7 bolts), cleaned, and led by Marcella and John Baldwin. Apr 20, 2010
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
Nice, little route. Sep 2, 2010
Daniel Cohn  
Surprisingly fun route. It is hard to see the good stuff from the bottom. A #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot can be used in the steep section but is not necessary. The guidebook gave it 11a, but 10d is probably more accurate. May 22, 2011
Brad Leneis
Brad Leneis  
This is a great little route, lots of really fun positions. Sep 14, 2014
The sloper rail about halfway up is sweet. May 17, 2015
B. Smith
Denver, CO
B. Smith   Denver, CO
I plugged a 0.75 in the small roof before the first bolt. Helped me get off the ground and felt much safer. Mar 19, 2017
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
I couldn't believe how fun this was, with just two stars in the book! Get on it, it's fantastic! The finger cracks up high are good, and the bolt spacing is fine. Jun 3, 2018
WNC/Broomfield, CO
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
Great rock and fun climbing, but the bolt placements on the upper half are a little awkward. Aug 15, 2018