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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland and Allison Sheets
Page Views: 1,968 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the far right-hand side of Oceanic Wall (up the ramp a little towards Dream Dome). It follows a blackened stripe of rock. Look for a piton about 15 feet up and two bolts just above the roof. The crux is pulling the roof. Work left after the roof to the two-bolt anchor.

Protection

This is a mixed gear & bolt route, bring a standard rack. There are two bolts and a piton to a double bolt anchor.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
F.A. Kyle Copeland and Allison Sheets. Sep 10, 2015
I did this to day with my kids and had a good time. It seems to have three variations. One is what sounds like the original description; a second stays right and up the open corner on bolts; and a third goes to the third bolt of the second option (4th if counting piton) and then does a cool traverse left to meet the first option. In any case, all start with a bolt at about 15 feet, which is high but easy to clip. Then all pass a piton. For option one, move left at the roof. Two bolts (one old, one newer) are over the lip. Continue up the corner and angle left (takes #0.5-1 Friends to anchor). For option three, you traverse in on good hands and poor feet to option one just above the bolts. Didn't do option two all the way, though it looks easy. Jun 5, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
I agree with Darren, the pro on this route is not abundant. Well protected crux, though. Also, there is currently a wasp's nest just left of this route (we TR'd it with no problem, however). Apr 16, 2006
Rob Curtis - I agree with the last comment, the climb isn't easy to protect, bring a set of nuts and some small cams. Good fun. Jun 14, 2004
I got a placement below the first piton, but didn't spot the piton itself and was close to 20-25' off the deck before getting a second piece, with definite ground fall potential. The climbing was probably 5.7. Be warned that the piton doesn't look very good and that this route should, in my opinion, not be taken on lightly. Aug 4, 2003