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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin
Page Views: 235 total, 1/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall, and climbs 30 feet of easy terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left as for Leviathon for ~15 feet before breaking right again and climbing a right-leaning lieback feature. Shares an anchor with Leviathon.

Protection

Fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 50m rope.

Photos

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J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11d
11b, Tony? Really? Maybe I was eating lead Cheerios for breakfast, but I thought that this was harder the either of the variations to the immediate right or left, both of which I thought were reasonable at 11c/d. I also thought the variations to the right or left were better routes, but to each their own as they say. Aug 29, 2016
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I seem to remember the 2nd bolt was located at a strange stance that required a lot of foot friction. Also there was a possibility of a grounder if you blow it w/ slack in your mitts! Focus hard, and ignore the little voices...Young Doug. Jul 11, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.11c
Aeon Aki    
  5.11c
After a decent rest, the crux sequence is very sustained: 5.11 holds but feels like 5.12 while maneuvering to get yourself into the correct position to make the holds work right. Nevertheless, it is a great place to practice taking some whippers. The first bolt you need to clip as you establish in the seam is very difficult to clip but the one below it makes it too far to skip to fall safely if you blow it. May 9, 2007
Lon Black  
 
Of the three upper pitches above the initial 10a pitch, this one is the easiest for me. It is by no means easy, but relative to the one to the left and the one to the right, it is a touch easier. The left pitch has a crux that seems a little harder than this one, and the right route feels at least a grade harder. Jun 6, 2005
Not that fun of a route, but 11b??? I don't know about that...I haven't had to hang (and twice at that) on a mid-5.11 sport climb in years. If Sargasso Sea and Mud Shark are 12a, then this route is more like 12a/b. Jul 1, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The second to last clip is admittedly difficult, and it took me for a fall, but I don't think this pitch is really on-par with the 11c/d grade. Maybe I'd call it 11b? May 6, 2002
FYI: the trip up to the two bolt anchor shared by Dream On and Leviathan is 10a, so it makes for a nice short lead if you, like me, don't warm up on the 11s. That is, if you can get on it. Notoriously crowded, unless you make a mid December visit and climb near the frozen creek. Not recommended. Jan 1, 2001