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Elevation: 7,325 ft
GPS: 40.01, -105.409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,275 total · 140/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is another great wall with some nice climbs nearly right off the water. While there is no ocean here, you can have some nice creek-side beach with pretty granite cobbles.

L->R:

A?
B? Belie Black, 8-9?, 1p, bolts.
C. Encore, 11-, 1p, bolts.
D. In Your Dreams, 10, 1p, 90', TR or gear or now bolts.
E. The Deep, 11 or 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Sargasso Sea, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
G. Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood, 13, 1p, bolts.
H. Wake of The Flood, 13, 1p, bolts.
I. Leviathon, 11, 1-2p, 80', bolts.
above Dream On, 11, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 30', bolts.
above Mud Shark, 11+, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 70', bolts.
J1. Pla Pwy (Sick Fish), 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
J2. Creature From The Black Lagoon, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
above J2. Dream Come True, 12-, 1p, 35', bolts.
above J2. Nightmare Come True, 12-, 1p, bolts.
above J2. Pound Town, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
above J2. Chocolate Nut Factory, 9-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
above J2. Poundcakes, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
K. Twistin' By The Pool, 10+ S, 90', gear, bolts, & pins.
L. Sheik Yer Bouti, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts & pins.
M. Permanent Restraining Order, 11-, 1p, 90', gear.
N1. Shiny Toys, 9, 1p, 80', gear & bolts & pin.
N2. Unknown right of Shiny Toys, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.

EE. Trans-Oceanic Traverse, 11+ S, start with I to C, bolts, pins, & gear.

Getting There

On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side.

21 Total Climbs

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Location: Oceanic Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Oceanic Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
● Pound Town
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
● Unknown right of Shiny Toys
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 3
● Twistin' By The Pool
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 146
● In Your Dreams
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
● Encore
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 94
● The Deep
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 82
● Leviathan
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
● Shiek Yer Bouti
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
● Creature from the Black Lagoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 117
● Sargasso Sea
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
● Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 22
● Challenges of Leisure aka Wake o…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pound Town
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Unknown right of Shiny Toys
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Twistin' By The Pool
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
● In Your Dreams
 146
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Encore
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● The Deep
 94
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Leviathan
 82
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
● Shiek Yer Bouti
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Creature from the Black Lagoon
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Sargasso Sea
 117
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Challenges of Leisure aka W…
 22
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Oceanic Wall »

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Photos

Upper and Lower Dream Canyon<br> <br> Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.
Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from o…
 6
Upper Dream Canyon topo overview.
Upper Dream Canyon topo overview.
 2
Oceanic Wall.
Oceanic Wall.
 1
Newer unknown 5.11 on left side of Oceanic. Fun route!
Newer unknown 5.11 on left side of Oceanic. Fu…
 1
Oceanic Wall, Dream Canyon.
Oceanic Wall, Dream Canyon.
 1
Upper Oceanic headwall.<br> <br> Photo: Bob Horan.
Upper Oceanic headwall. Photo: Bob Horan.
 0
Oceanic Wall, photo: Bob Horan.
Oceanic Wall, photo: Bob Horan.
 0

4 Comments

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Clare Shemeta
Clare Shemeta  
Anybody know what the two routes left of In Your Dreams are? Leftmost seems hardish 11, next route to right seems like 9+. Jul 10, 2011
tbol
tbol  
I am not sure who bolted these or what they are called. I do agree, the farthest left one is about 5.9. Immediately right of that route is a newer route, I would say is 11a/b. The right one, which I did yesterday for the first time, is very fun. Watch out for a large loose rock right of the second bolt. There is also a significant run out at the top, albeit easy. The left route is a little more lackluster. Nov 9, 2015
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
How about the right slanting slab pitch two right of Sargasso Sea? Only did the first pitch, and it felt like hard 11 maybe? Mar 14, 2016
tbol
tbol  
I haven't done that one yet, Richard. It looks like a good variation and the logical start to Mud Shark, as it follows the same weakness that forms the crux of that route. Seems like linking it would make for a fun and long traversing pitch. Mar 15, 2016