Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl, Janet Robinson, and John Baldwin
Page Views: 3,083 total · 14/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

An easy start leads to the thin and tricky undercling / lieback crux of this route at ~40 feet. The route is distinguished by an obvious black waterstreak, located on the right side of the wall.

Protection

This is fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 60m rope. There are 11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
This route is waaaay hard. I'll never admit how many attempts this one took me to get. Sargasso, Leviathon, Mud Shark (all on the same wall, and rated the same or harder, are cake in comparison). Fantastic route! Kudos to anyone who onsights this one. Aug 20, 2001
TRUE DAT AC! waaaay hard climb! but awesome climbing to be had on the crux. Rossiters's guide shows that once you reach the obvious ledge up high, traverse right and use a piton (or so one would think that is what he meant when looking at the topo) But, just take the obvious line straight past 4 or 5 more bolts to an anchor up top. Also, one might want to place a few TCUs in the bottom section to reach the first bolt- Unless you don't mind climbing 5.8 for 35 feet unroped. Sep 18, 2001
Yo, I onsighted and still haven't redpointed Sargasso Sea! I thought the trick was to press hard with the feet, full on power laybacking. Any recommendations for Sargasso? Apr 23, 2002
Luke Evans
  5.11c
Luke Evans  
  5.11c
We actually saw a creature (Garter Snake) at the bottom of this climb! Watch-out because it guards the starting foothold! Crux is pretty fun, tricky-pump liebacks but I think that the route should've ended after the CRUX......just my opinion* Sep 7, 2005
I thought this climb was a lot better than 2 stars, especially for the area. Had I heeded the quality rating from here, I'd likely not have tried it. Try it!

The lieback/undercling is quite fun. True, the top is relatively easy, but it's kind of pleasant stemming and stepping. Aug 5, 2007
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Some hateful liebacking on this mother. Aurprisingly micro-sequential also. Probably better to be one of those short, ball-of-muscle types. Jul 27, 2009
Bring a 0.75 to protect the start. Really fun route! It´s like the little brother of the "Arch Angel" ;-) Mar 16, 2014
Jeremy Jacobsen
  5.12c
Jeremy Jacobsen  
  5.12c
The crux sequence is solid 12. My two cents are 12c ish. Mar 16, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
This route requires a 60 meter (200 ft) rope to descend, not a 50 meter (165ft.) rope. Secondly, it is not fully bolted & requires one or two pieces of gear to protect the 5.10 start shared with "Twistin by The Pool". I place a # 1 Camalot or a #2.5 Friend plus a 1.5" cam (side by side).
Great route with a crux that is strenuous for the Oceanic Wall. May 17, 2017