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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl, Janet Robinson, and John Baldwin
Page Views: 2,716 total, 13/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

An easy start leads to the thin and tricky undercling / lieback crux of this route at ~40 feet. The route is distinguished by an obvious black waterstreak, located on the right side of the wall.

Protection

This is fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 60m rope. There are 11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
This route requires a 60 meter (200 ft) rope to descend, not a 50 meter (165ft.) rope. Secondly, it is not fully bolted & requires one or two pieces of gear to protect the 5.10 start shared with "Twistin by The Pool". I place a # 1 Camalot or a #2.5 Friend plus a 1.5" cam (side by side).
Great route with a crux that is strenuous for the Oceanic Wall. May 17, 2017
Jeremy Jacobsen
  5.12c
Jeremy Jacobsen  
  5.12c
The crux sequence is solid 12. My two cents are 12c ish. Mar 16, 2015
Bring a 0.75 to protect the start. Really fun route! It´s like the little brother of the "Arch Angel" ;-) Mar 16, 2014
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Some hateful liebacking on this mother. Aurprisingly micro-sequential also. Probably better to be one of those short, ball-of-muscle types. Jul 27, 2009
I thought this climb was a lot better than 2 stars, especially for the area. Had I heeded the quality rating from here, I'd likely not have tried it. Try it!

The lieback/undercling is quite fun. True, the top is relatively easy, but it's kind of pleasant stemming and stepping. Aug 5, 2007
Luke Evans
  5.11c
Luke Evans  
  5.11c
We actually saw a creature (Garter Snake) at the bottom of this climb! Watch-out because it guards the starting foothold! Crux is pretty fun, tricky-pump liebacks but I think that the route should've ended after the CRUX......just my opinion* Sep 7, 2005
Yo, I onsighted and still haven't redpointed Sargasso Sea! I thought the trick was to press hard with the feet, full on power laybacking. Any recommendations for Sargasso? Apr 23, 2002
TRUE DAT AC! waaaay hard climb! but awesome climbing to be had on the crux. Rossiters's guide shows that once you reach the obvious ledge up high, traverse right and use a piton (or so one would think that is what he meant when looking at the topo) But, just take the obvious line straight past 4 or 5 more bolts to an anchor up top. Also, one might want to place a few TCUs in the bottom section to reach the first bolt- Unless you don't mind climbing 5.8 for 35 feet unroped. Sep 18, 2001
This route is waaaay hard. I'll never admit how many attempts this one took me to get. Sargasso, Leviathon, Mud Shark (all on the same wall, and rated the same or harder, are cake in comparison). Fantastic route! Kudos to anyone who onsights this one. Aug 20, 2001