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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996 or 1997
Page Views: 355 total, 2/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pretty fun steep slab climbing. Begin as for Dream On and Leviathan in the center of the wall. Climb the three bolt 5.10a to the 2 bolt anchor. Mud Shark takes the rightmost of the three bolted lines above the anchor.

Climb the weird seam to a crux traverse sequence below a bulge...funky and slippery. 4 or 5 bolts past the anchor...8 or 9 total.

Protection

8 or 9 QDS and 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
F.A.: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin '96 or '97. Sep 10, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
I returned & repeated this climb on Labor Day. It has been 10 years or more since I last climbed it. What a great pitch! I had climbed it several times since 1998. The shallow, leaning crack followed by the steep slab is techinical & insecure on perfect stone. I think I will stick with the .12a rating I gave it in my last guidebook to the area "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". There are now a total of 12 clips, since one got added to the shared start. 7 bolts above the first anchor. It is important to note that this route is 90 feet in length (not 70 ft.). It is 10 ft. longer than Sargasso Sea & The Deep and 10 ft. shorter than Creature Of The Black Lagoon. Sep 9, 2015
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Good route with tricky flared jamming. Thankfully the footwork is on surprisingly grippy rock. The contrived finish left a bit to be desired though. Sep 21, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome pitch from the river to the top anchors. Tough, slippery crux requires technical feet. Well worth doing. May 17, 2009