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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Rossiter, Herschoff, Hare, Horan.
Page Views: 6,417 total, 31/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The route begins with a bang- an obvious side pull sets you up for throw to better holds. From this move, climb into a strenous seam that spits you out onto the slab. Balance and smear your way through the crux and onto to easier climbing.

Protection

Bring draws for 9 bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Aaron Furman
  5.11c/d PG13
Aaron Furman  
  5.11c/d PG13
Great climb, the crux seemed to be the opening movements (between bolt 1 & 2), and then you get to the finger crack (bolt 5, 6, 7, me thinks).

Slab seemed easier for me, I think that had to do with my height (6'3") - all in all between the finger crack that I was too big for, I think this was a stout 5.11+. Jul 19, 2015
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
 
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
 
I went back to this climb yesterday, I didn't even remember that I had climbed it before, so it was pretty much onsight mode. I don't really see how people are saying this is "soft" for 12a or an easy onsight at all. I struggled...a lot... at the crux. I've onsighted quite a few 12a routes, and I feel like that grade is usually not too difficult for me, but not this one.... Afterwards we went over to Archangel, 12c. I definitely had to put in way more effort and way more attempts on this "12a" than the "12c". I'm not saying that either of the grades are incorrect, soft, or sandbagged. I'm just saying this thing has a really hard crux, so get psyched to pull really hard on directional holds and slippery feet! Apr 15, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Hyper classic UDC route. Get on it and decide for yourself it's easy or hard. More techy than anything, I guess. Me like.... Jan 29, 2015
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
A blue TCU-sized piece can be used between bolts 2 and 3. The climbing through here is pretty easy, but it was wet when I did it, so it was kind of nice to have. The upper crux took a bit to figure out. I thought the protection here was a little weird. There is a ledge in a bad spot below, and you don't really get rewarded with a good clipping stance when you go for it. The 2nd bolt above the crux seemed poorly thought out also.

Overall, the climbing is really good. If the bolts were dialed in a bit better, it would probably be a 4 star route. Jun 8, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a/b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a/b
I'll give my two cents here: this was a frustrating route for me to say the least. I read the above comments from Adam and thought to myself, "It can't be that hard...." The boulder problem at the first bolt is devious, but once you've wired it (thanks for the beta, Jay...), it seems right on for 12a. I guess I didn't think twice about the runout above bolt two, but off the rest stance at bolts 4/5, the route is strenuous, technical, and deceptive. It took me many goes to finally wire these moves. I ended up not using the the finger slots but instead using some dismal high feet to create enough pressure to stand up into the subtle undercling/pinch/bulge feature. From there, the route eases to low-11/hard-10 climbing and onto the chains. Overall, the route climbs very well on some of the best stone in the canyon, and I think my disappointment merely came from my high expectation to onsight this route. Be prepared to think on this one. May 21, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
Agreed, Jay.
Every time I climb this route I think to myself, why the F... is this bolted with such bad groundfall potential. To make matters worse, if you are not tall, then you can't even reach the bolt from the ledge stance. I can reach it no prob, but I have certainly watched shorter folks have to do moves to clip it. Pretty dumb. May 19, 2014
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Amazing route and lots of fun. I don't understand why there is a run-out ground fall potential between bolts 2 and 3 though. Granted it's easy climbing, but holds break, feet slip, and shit happens. Why put that risk into this route when it's a fully bolted sport route? May 19, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I thought this was a super fun route. I guess you could ding the quality a bit because it has several huge, no hands rests, but the moves are so fun and the rock so bomber that I think it deserves 4 stars. In addition, I think the route probably deserves 12a, mostly because I think that the technical movement is comparable to many other 12a's at other granite areas, both inside and outside of CO. Oct 10, 2012
I'm 6'0" with a decent wingspan. I was able to use the left hand undercling, high step right to an adequate knob, and reach all the way up to the finger slot. I used pinky and ring fingers in a thumbs-up position. At first, it felt terrible, but on my RP, it felt good enough to move my left foot and then clip from. Didn't see a crisp edge for my left hand. Grade is on for BC - I've had this experience a few times at the grade - feels deceptively hard the first time, then flows pretty well after another try or two. Sep 26, 2011
Ian
Boulder, CO
Ian   Boulder, CO
After failing miserably trying to go for the mono/finger-lock last time, I ended up doing what AC described in a moment of desperation this time around. It's not as obvious, but a lot easier than going for the seam ways up. Aug 25, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Fun- first 12a onsight- easier than p1 of Earth Voyage. Not having done much climbing in the area, I don't know what to call it. Either way you can move left of the crux and escape to an easier yet still neato 11c variation. I moved to the left, to anchors after the crux section. The rest of the climb may be fun, but it looked significantly easier and maybe a waste of time? May 4, 2008
Luke Evans
  5.12b
Luke Evans  
  5.12b
Felt 12b hard to me and kept me on my toes, even after the 2nd crux. Such a rewarding Route, when your foot finally sticks to the granite through the 2nd crux! Sep 7, 2005
Area and Nonono, you have it all wrong. The correct beta at the crux above the 2nd no hands rest ledge is:

Right hand sidepull, lieback right foot seam, as high as possible without compromising body position, left foot up, slopey but adequate foothold, left hand undercling, long reach, right hand to very blunt arete that can be pinched marginally, left hand to crisp thin edge about 1.5 feet left of right hand that is pinching the blunt arete, move off of that, that's the crux (hardest part probably getting set up correctly), clip is w/ the left hand off of the right hand that is still on the blunt arete.

Geez! get your beta straight man! May 7, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The rock on the lower half of this route is very polished, almost to the point of making this route not enjoyable. The two crux sections are tough to read. It helps to be tall on the lower crux and shorter on the higher crux. Oct 19, 2003
The boulder problem at the start is the crux if you read the "crux" sequence correctly up higher and work the undercling feature. Felt more like 11c/d to me after seeing someone try the route before I got on it. Jul 1, 2002
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Every person I have been down to Dream Canyon with has easily on-sighted this route and thought it was easy for the grade. This was my first on-sight of a 12a and after a dozen more on-sights at the grade, I also feel it is a bit soft. None the less, it is a fun route with pleasing moves. Mar 21, 2002
Work out your body position on both of these cruxes. Climb this route a few times and it's likely to seem a lot easier than 5.12a. Sep 17, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
Interesting Doug, My first time on this route I had the same experience as you did, I recall a sort of diagonal jamming/handtraversing deal to get to a really bad diagonaling hold, it seemed way harder than .12a. I went back to the route and tried the crux differently, you undecling the right diagonaling holds and can stand up and avoid this reach, this way is at most .12a, probably about as hard as the beginning. Deceptive sequence. Jan 1, 2001
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I'd have to agree with Pat on this one. Although the bottom crux is completely height-dependant (I am 6 and snagged the jug with no problem), the upper slab crux is not as bad if you know the beta. I thought the 12a rating seemed about right for the overall route, although neither crux seemed as hard as 5.12 on its own. Jan 1, 2001