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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. FFA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin
Page Views: 2,741 total, 13/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11b
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11b
Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps. Sep 1, 2012
Bob Rotert
5.11
Bob Rotert  
5.11
Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the flat hold. Sep 10, 2011
Daniel Cohn  
 
Tough onsight, but once you unlock the crux, it starts to feel the grade. May 22, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Good long moves and a tricky crux (although there is a bomber jug to hang out on while you figure it out!) May 17, 2009
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this. Aug 26, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent. Jun 29, 2008
I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier... Aug 5, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11d
I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb. Aug 28, 2006
I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park. Sep 9, 2005
Luke Evans
  5.12a
Luke Evans  
  5.12a
You can do the whole route with a 60m and you don't even get rope drag! The crux seam is AMAZING! Sep 7, 2005
The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section. Sep 19, 2004
FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day. Oct 30, 2003
The First Pitch makes for an Excellent 10a. Really fun lead, the crux is probably the first bolt. Jun 16, 2003
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
1st pitch is a fun 10a if you're not an 11 climber, 35-40 feet. Jun 13, 2003
Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp! Jan 1, 2001