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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter and Leah Macaluso, June 1996.
Page Views: 2,850 total, 14/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

This route is diverse. It begins with a delicate mantle that leads into a more powerful roof. Beyond the roof is nice rest stance. Use it, and then negotiate the crux with small holds and high step move. The rest of the route turns into easy slab climbing, with protection becoming more sparse.

Protection

You'll need quickdraws for 10 bolts and a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

cLohse
Boulder, CO
 
cLohse   Boulder, CO
 
This route took some work. Those holds at the crux, the left hand, two finger sloper knob and the small righty slippery crimp, do not inspire confidence, but piecing it all together was totally satisfying. The rest of the route isn't terrifically difficult, but arriving at the crux with plenty of gas in the tank seemed crucial. Jul 21, 2010
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11b
The harder variation goes right at the overhang and skirts along the side of the ceiling. Apr 30, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
The initial "mantle" felt about 8 or 9 doing it right of the first bolt, and it wasn't a mantle. Climbing left of the first bolt is hard. Above that, moving right and back left is fun. Does the 12a variation in Rossiter go directly over the ceiling rather than traversing left? The crux is tenuous. Maneuvering prior to doing the move, I felt my hands could pop at any time. The easier face above is way fun with big knobs making the widely spaced bolts seem reasonable. Sep 8, 2004
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11b
Really good route, 11b for the left variation and maybe 11c for the right variation? Certainly easier than Leviathan or Mud Shark, but just as fun. Aug 29, 2016
The date of the FA was June 1996 as for all three routes on The Icon, just next door. May 9, 2007
Young Doug - This is another fun route. The beginning is all over the place, then you land in a cool sloper-pop-to-undercling thing crux. The upper section along with Sargasso is some of the nicest face climbing in the canyon. Yep. Jan 1, 2001