Type: Sport, Aid, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Jessica True, 2002, FFA: Chris Weidner, 2006? Travis Blair, 2012
Page Views: 2,329 total · 12/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 30, 2002 with updates from Andy Hansen
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Begin 30 feet right from Tales of Power at a left-facing corner. Climb easily past three bolts, then make very difficult moves into a shallow dihedral. Tips lieback up the dihedral (12a), gain an undercling and master a second crux (12c A0, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). This has steep, strenuous, thin, excellent rock all the way. Who will redpoint this beauty? I could not pull it off, but I'm just an old guy.

Protection

10 quickdraws.

Photos

My friend and her partner tried leading this one today thinking it was a 5.9. I ended up getting to the anchors by leading Tales of Power. Since we had a toprope setup, we figured "What the hell. Let's try it."What a tough but wonderful climb. Balance is needed in spots and strength in others. The tips liebacking and thin face sequences rocked. They could have only been better if the climb had been attempted more often, because a number of thin edges crumbled away as we tried to find footholds. Regardless, it was a fun one. I didn't climb it cleanly, but whoever does deserves a nice cold beer, and I'd be happy to buy. Jun 29, 2003
Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line. Jul 9, 2006
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
  5.12d C0
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
  5.12d C0
This climb demands respect. Red Limit will reward technique and tension more so than finger strength. The lieback is the "easy part", though I found it scary to power lieback left on lead with the bolts to your right. Once you get to the mini-roof, it's all about bad feet and tension. Good beta will get you through the moves at around .12d. Be carefully up top above the crux as .11+ slab climbing awaits you. Excellent route. Jun 21, 2012
Travis Blair  
 
Just sent today! Now where's my beer...? Sep 21, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12d
This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall. Jul 12, 2014
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
 
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
 
Really cool moves, but too bad that dihedral doesn't go all the way to the ground! Oct 18, 2015