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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 473 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb is somewhat short but really fun. The gear is good, the crack relatively splitter, and the climbing steep. What more could you want?

Climb the first few feet of Pirate Radar, clipping its first two bolts step right, clip a third bolt and pull up into the dihedral above. From a no-hands rest, a few good finger-size, horizontal pieces can be placed. Rest up, traverse out to the crack, place some gear and crank up the gradually widening crack before traversing a jug rail left to get to the anchors.

Location

This is the nice looking finger and hand crack up and right of the Pirate Radar roof.

Protection

A few cams up to 3 inches, some quickdraws, and a couple of nuts should be sufficient.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Fun route. The crack is steeper than it looks, but it's short, and the gear is great. Nov 27, 2016