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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Description

This is another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.

Routes L->R:

The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.

A. Dreamscape 8, 1p, bolts.
B. Sea of Dreams 11-, 1p, bolts.
C. Flying Vee 10a R-X, 1p, bolt, pin, & gear.
D. Soul on Ice 11 PG, 1p, bolts.
E. Dry Ice, 11 PG, 1p, bolts & gear.

The next route starts at the base of the approach gully.

F. Stained Glass, 11-, 2p. P1: 11-, bolts & gear. P2: 10-11, bolts, bolt anchor.

Right of the approach gully.

GF. Wrinkled Glass, 8, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
G. Wrinkles In Time, 9, 2p. P1: 9, bolts & gear. P2: 7, bolts +/- gear.
H. Phantasmagoria, 2 p, 11-, P1: 11a, bolts & gear. P2: 10-, bolts & gear.
I. Disillusioned Reality , C2+, 1p, 85', pins & gear.
JI. Disillusioned Reality free variation , 10 PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
J. Tales of Power, 11, 2p. P1: 11b, bolts. P2: 11-, bolts.
K. Journey to Ixtlan 11-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Limit 12c A0, bolts.
M. Laidback Nightmare, V1-2.
MN. Shared Dreams, V3-4.
N. Simone Has Dreams, V4-5, 20', bolts or TR or boulder.
O. A Brief History of Time 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
P. A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless), 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Timeless, 9+, 1p, 85', bolts.
R. Route between Timeless and Gully Washer, 8, 1p, 40', bolts.
S. Gully Washer 9, 1p, bolts.
T. Wet Dreams 10-, 1p, bolt, TR.

Getting There

On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.

From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.

The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dream Dome

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Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A note on the approach. We made the error of descending all the way into the canyon to climb Dreamscape. It is a tricky approach to the left routes from here involving some unroped climbing up a narrow slot. Much easier to rappel to the routes (from trees) which are only about 5 minutes from the car! Our first time in there and it can be confusing. Aug 30, 2003
Nick Fury
Boulder, Colorado
Nick Fury   Boulder, Colorado
It seems there are two or three more bolted lines past the Gully Wash/Wet Dreams bolts now. I only had time for one and it was well bolted, and a really fun moderate (5.9+-5.10a) route. It was not the next one over from those bolts but the one after that. Bring 11 quickdraws. Jun 17, 2009
Jeremy W
Clinton, NY
Jeremy W   Clinton, NY
There's an orange Petzl rope stuck on dream dome, maybe halfway in. I'll grab it this Saturday. Feel free to unstick it and hide it if you're climbing that route. Aug 25, 2011

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