Elevation: 7,353 ft
GPS: 40.01, -105.409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,888 total · 201/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by benkincaid
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.

Routes L->R:

The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.

A. Dreamscape 8, 1p, bolts.
B. Sea of Dreams 11-, 1p, bolts.
C. Flying Vee 10a R-X, 1p, bolt, pin, & gear.
D. Soul on Ice 11 PG, 1p, bolts.
E. Dry Ice, 11 PG, 1p, bolts & gear.

The next route starts at the base of the approach gully.

F. Stained Glass, 11-, 2p. P1: 11-, bolts & gear. P2: 10-11, bolts, bolt anchor.

Right of the approach gully.

GF. Wrinkled Glass, 8, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
G. Wrinkles In Time, 9, 2p. P1: 9, bolts & gear. P2: 7, bolts +/- gear.
H. Phantasmagoria, 2 p, 11-, P1: 11a, bolts & gear. P2: 10-, bolts & gear.
I. Disillusioned Reality , C2+, 1p, 85', pins & gear.
JI. Disillusioned Reality free variation , 10 PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
J. Tales of Power, 11, 2p. P1: 11b, bolts. P2: 11-, bolts.
K. Journey to Ixtlan 11-, 1p, bolts.
L. Red Limit 12c A0, bolts.
M. Laidback Nightmare, V1-2.
MN. Shared Dreams, V3-4.
N. Simone Has Dreams, V4-5, 20', bolts or TR or boulder.
O. A Brief History of Time 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
P. A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless), 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Timeless, 9+, 1p, 85', bolts.
R. Route between Timeless and Gully Washer, 8, 1p, 40', bolts.
S. Gully Washer 9, 1p, bolts.
T. Wet Dreams 10-, 1p, bolt, TR.

Getting There

On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.

From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.

The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams.

To access the bouldering area at the top of Dream Dome, take the path heading Northwest from the parking lot that is titled "Approach to Dream Dome" in the Mountain Project map. This trail passes through the free campsites near the parking lot.

29 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Dream Dome Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Dream Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1-2 5
 3
Jake's Problem
Boulder
A3
 3
Disillusioned Reality
Trad, Aid
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 344
Wrinkles in Time
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
A Brief History of Time
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 75
Wet Dreams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
 8
Flying Vee
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
A Brief Waste of Time (submitted…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Sea of Dreams
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Phantasmagoria
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Soul on Ice
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 62
Stained Glass
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 77
Tales of Power
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Whippers in Time
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
 15
Red Limit
Sport, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jake's Problem
 3
V1-2 5 Boulder
Disillusioned Reality
 3
A3 Trad, Aid
Wrinkles in Time
 344
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
A Brief History of Time
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wet Dreams
 75
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Flying Vee
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad, TR
A Brief Waste of Time (subm…
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sea of Dreams
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Phantasmagoria
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Soul on Ice
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Stained Glass
 62
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Tales of Power
 77
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Whippers in Time
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Red Limit
 15
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0 Sport, Aid
More Classic Climbs in Dream Dome »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos