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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Sharon Vaughan, 2002
Page Views: 1,106 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Good crack climbing, excellent rock. Begin 15 feet down and left from Tales of Power. Look for a bolt.

P1. Climb corners and roofs just left of Tales of Power (11a, 3 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). The second bolt is difficult to clip until you position yourself correctly, then it is easy. The crux is in moving past the second bolt. This is all rather tricky.

P2. Discontinuous cracks lead upward (10a, 2 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet).

This route is easily done as one long lead. Belay from the top, then rappel twice.

Protection

Gear up to 2.5 inches. There are also 5 bolts to cover blank sections.
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
It's possible to link both pitches and then rap back to the ground with a 70m. May 15, 2017
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
The first pitch of this rte is really quite fun and the pro is straight fwd and solid. I would agree that it is a one move wonder, which by the way is completely bolt protected, but I didn't find any loose rock, perhaps it has cleaned up a little. With a little more traffic the little potato chips and stray lichen would all be gone. I think it's definitely worth doing and there's never anyone on it. Jun 7, 2008
A weak one star and a one move wonder. About 120' if the two pitches are linked. We trundled a 40 lb death hold, a teetering pillar situated exactly where anyone would grab it; wonder why previous parties didn't remove this hazard. Jun 23, 2004