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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Janet Robinson and Steve Sangdahl, 1997
Page Views: 445 total, 2/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The second route encountered when walking down the gully on Dream Dome's right flank. Climb some slabby but fun rock past several bolts and lower.

This is the SECOND sport climb down from the top, right-most climb. The highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang is Wet Dreams. This climb has nearly the same start, but goes more straight up.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
The last part is "run-out", but it is easy if you had no problems on the lower part. Oct 22, 2014
Todd Miller   MT
A shallow #2 Camalot can be placed from the small ledge above the last bolt if you'd rather not run it out to the anchor. Jun 7, 2014
Did I miss a bolt? The last 25 feet from the last bolt to the anchors is run-out on 5.5ish terrain. There are maybe some marginal placements in thin cracks. May 12, 2013
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Anyone know about the bolt line just right of Gully Washer? Fun, slopey climb that feels 5.7ish, it climbs up a series of large eroded pockets. Jul 5, 2007
D. Shaw
  5.10-
D. Shaw  
  5.10-
I generally refrain from making comments, but I saw the "5.8" rating and had to. Rating is always subjective, but about 6 of us did it in late July ('06). Most of us have 20 years of traditional climbing experience, but are admittedly not "honed" sport-cragers. So, for what it is worth, we all liked it and relative to 6 other pitches we did in Dream Canyon, would say it is about 5.9+ at the crux, not 5.8. My new book calls it 10a, by the way. If you are waiting to get on another one nearby, it is worth the 10 minutes to do it, though I liked "A Brief History," which is just to the left of it, a bit more. Aug 2, 2006
Not a bad little route, definitely worth chucking a lap on if you are in the area. It's much nicer than it looks from the ground. I especially liked the second crux bulge near the middle of the climb, good fun. Sep 20, 2004
I did this route yesterday, I think it's fun enough to deserve repeat climbs. The crux is the start, and between the fourth and fifth bolts. May 25, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I really like this route. The start is definitely 5.9, especially for shorter people. It can be done straight up just left of the first bolt, or by moving out well right of the bolt. The middle section of the climb (2nd to 5th bolts) can be done in several ways; the easier line goes to the right of the bolts; the harder line stays on the bolt line or a little to the left. This is a fun, steep climb that can be done several different ways; definitely worth doing and two stars in my book. Aug 23, 2002
I would have to disagree. I did this route for the first time the other day and thought it was pretty lame. I had no problems with any moves in particular, but reached the anchor thinking, hmm, there are better things to with my time. Jul 23, 2002
Actually it's not a perfect yellow Alien, it's pretty crappy.... a red Alien might fit better, but it's not really needed unless you feel freaked reaching above the roof to clip the first bolt. This climb seems to be very height-dependent, my partner yesterday is quite a bit shorter than I and she could not reach the holds necessary to turn the roof.....also the crux jug is reachy and probably much harder if you are under 5'10"......I am just over 6' and have no problem reaching all of these holds, so it is much easier for me. Anyway, blah blah blah......a great pitch that is much better than it looks. Jun 6, 2001
I've done this one a few times and will probably do it again today....very fun, sustained and rated 5.9 in the book....felt like 8+ to me. A perfect yellow Alien can be placed just under the roof to protect until you get the clip above the roof....probably not needed but nice to have just in case. A much better climb than it looks like from the ground (balancy first half and steep juggy second half).....me and my buddy were callin' out, "Jugtacular....Jugariffic...". Just plain fun. Jun 5, 2001