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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 405 total · 10/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jul 25, 2015 with updates from Lindsay Waters
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a weird new route squeezed just right of A Brief History of Time. The crux may be a lot harder if you don't use the right wall of the finger crack as a sidepull. Its rating is a ?, since who knows how you're "supposed" to climb it!

Location

This is a new route just right of A Brief History of Time. The first bolt is low on the slab, then there are 2 bolts past an easy roof, then you go up using very shallow sidepulls past 3 bolts just right of the finger crack of A Brief History.

Protection

6 bolts and a few small/medium cams (#0.5/0.75 Camalot after first bolt, and an optional cam up higher but not needed). It is directly under the anchor for A Brief History of Time.

Photos

Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Agreed, weird. Sep 20, 2015
Bill Farrand
  5.10d
Bill Farrand  
  5.10d
I led this route recently, and it seemed really contrived to me... not a natural line. It is definitely a mixed route. Bring some cams both for the gap between the first and second bolts and for higher up as well. Oct 11, 2016
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I brought singles of 0.5 - 0.75. There is a bad fall potential in the middle of this climb, but it's super easy (5.5?) territory. Nov 14, 2016
Evan18
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Evan18   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
This is an independent climb from A Brief History of Time - at the crux, follow the bolt line straight up. The crux is the deadpoint/dynoish move to the scooped dish on the steeper wall straight above. If you use the finger crack, you traverse pretty far left, and definitely using the other route. In my opinion, fun movement - not the best route ever but still enjoyable. Definitely bolted as a mixed route - a few cams 0.5-2 is good, leave something for the top if you don't want to run it out a long ways on 5.6ish to the chains (fiddly, flared cracks). Jul 8, 2017
Todd Ra
Golden
Todd Ra   Golden
I call shenanigans. The crux feels significantly harder than 5.10 if you follow the bolt line proper.

Also, this route is pretty shenaniganny. Contrived and not really worth climbing. Jul 27, 2017
Lindsay Waters
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Lindsay Waters   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Man, this area was super confusing between the book and MP. We zigzagged around and made a super fun route by doing the start of this route, then scooting over to finish on "A Brief History Of Time". I thought it made for a 3 star 5.9 with two fun roof-y moves that look a little scary but turn out to be extra fun. I attached a picture showing what we did.

Beta warning: we put a 0.75 after the first bolt, before the roof, then a 0.4 before traversing left to finish the route. May 30, 2018

More About A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless)

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