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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1997
Page Views: 661 total · 3/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.

Protection

Stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect a blank face...chain anchor.

Photos

This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU Jun 21, 2001
If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though. Jun 22, 2001
Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut! Jul 23, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book. Aug 23, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic. Aug 23, 2002
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.9
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.9
I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy! Jul 15, 2006
There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun. Jul 26, 2007
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
 
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
 
Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop with one new bolt and the new route could take over History's crack finish. BTW I found the crux of History to be the slabby step left at the first bolt rather than the upper crack but that may speak more to my weaknesses than the route! Jul 17, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This has 3 bolts, but the D'Antonio guide lists the route as only having 2 bolts. Oct 20, 2014
Dale Haas and I bolted the direct finish to this route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range. Aug 23, 2016
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This was a great climb minus the moss on the top slab. With some more traffic, I'd give this three stars. For now, two stars seems right. Nov 14, 2016

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