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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Kyle Copeland, Tim Hudgel, Karl Rasmussen, 1984
Page Views: 881 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

A fun pitch, but the lack of decent pro makes it a better toprope than a lead.

Start between Sea of Dreams and Soul On Ice at a V-shaped dihedral with an old bolt. Climb the corner with some nice stemming moves and angle right at the top to the anchor shared with Soul On Ice and Dry Ice.

Protection

Not much. An old bolt, and maybe some small RPs and small Aliens here and there. Best done as a toprope after climbing Sea of Dreams or Soul On Ice.

It's also possible to top-rope this route from the big tree atop Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams, but you'll have to belay from the top and lower your partner down and have them climb back up. A 70m rope isn't long enough to rap down to the start of Flying Vee from this tree.

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Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a R
I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too. Jul 12, 2014