Type: TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: G Johnson
Page Views: 574 total · 8/month
Shared By: Greg Johnson on May 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun and powerful boulder problem, but it is advisable to rig it as a TR (gnarly landing zone and no easy exit). Locate the dark streak/seam/crack fifteen feet right (up gully) from the start of Red Limit and straight down from a tree on a ledge/alcove. Bust out pinches and side-clings to hit the mid-way tooth-horn. From here, punch left to jugs or power up the flare. A sit start is possible.

Location

See above. It is down gully from A Brief History of Time and just up gully from Red Limit.

Protection

For a TR, climb the first three bolts of Red Limit (5.8) and step right to the tree. Rig a TR off the tree.

Photos

Greg Johnson
  V4-5
Greg Johnson  
  V4-5
My son, Hayden, and I added two additional lines off the same anchor rig. Hayden did "Laidback Nightmare" V1-2. It is the line of flares, pinches, and lay-backs immediately right of the start of Red Limit. It is a bit dirty (we only brushed as needed), but more fun and harder than it looks. I added "Shared Dreams" (V3-4), which starts on Laidback and bumps right to join Simone Has Dreams at the horn. May 28, 2013