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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: Dan Hare, 1997
Page Views: 3,546 total · 17/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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This route starts in the approach gully, right of Sea of Dreams and left of Dry Ice (an obvious, left-facing, corner system.) An absolutely amazing arete route on perfect granite. If you don't like this one, you might as well cut short your visit to Dream Canyon and give up. The route is sustained and excellent throughout.


It is fully bolted, with a bolted rap station. Bring gear for an anchor if you belay in the gully. Be careful when lowering with a 50m rope; you'll barely make it down (lower to the left and uphill if in doubt).


Thanks to Ken Heiser for his suggestion to place an Alien between the last two bolts. The gray Alien fits well too. Either way, it cuts the runout between the bolts in half. There's also an opportunity to place a wire between the
last bolt an the p1 anchor. Excellent route - sustained and thought-provoking.

We didn't climb the short second pitch. Instead, we rapped about 60 feet to the rappel anchor at the top of the first pitch of Stained Glass. The anchor is not visible from the top of P1 of SoI; rappel diagonally in the direction of the small tree. From the SG rappel anchor, it's almost 100 feet to the base of Wrinkles in Time. Sep 13, 2017
I've removed two hallow aluminum SMC descending rings from the top anchor. The quicklinks are still at the anchor. If you want them back, let me know.

Leaving descent rings at the top of a popular sport climb is dangerous. Stop doing that. Jul 16, 2016
Jonathan Lagoe
Jonathan Lagoe   Boulder
Brilliant. Sep 3, 2012
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Greetings...I understand the need for a "yellow Alien" or green blue red etc.... I do not happen to have any Aliens. A suggestion would be to say try a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of gear.... Yes I'm a dirtbag and do not make a lot of dough! Mar 9, 2009
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
This is one of my favorite routes in Dream Canyon. I led this yesterday by starting in the gully at the base of "Wrinkles in Time" going up the gully and then up the bolts to the anchor at the top of the pitch. This make for about a 170' lead. The bolted part of this pitch is very sequential and sustained and has some of the prettiest granite I have ever seen on a beautiful arete. I could not lower off even to the ledge gully on the left with a 60m rope so I belayed my partner up the route and we did one short rappel to anchor at the top of the climb "Stained Glass" and then another to the ground. Also it would be possible to rappel to the ledge system on the left side for an ascent of "Sea of Dreams" et al. I always bring a yellow alien and place it at the top of the upper crux (after the thin right-angling crack) flake as it is a ways between bolts and I have often arrived there with a good pump. Super route, do it!! Sep 20, 2004