Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: Dan Hare, 1997
Page Views: 3,698 total · 17/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This route starts in the approach gully, right of Sea of Dreams and left of Dry Ice (an obvious, left-facing, corner system.) An absolutely amazing arete route on perfect granite. If you don't like this one, you might as well cut short your visit to Dream Canyon and give up. The route is sustained and excellent throughout.

Protection

It is fully bolted, with a bolted rap station. Bring gear for an anchor if you belay in the gully. Be careful when lowering with a 50m rope; you'll barely make it down (lower to the left and uphill if in doubt).

Photos

Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
This is one of my favorite routes in Dream Canyon. I led this yesterday by starting in the gully at the base of "Wrinkles in Time" going up the gully and then up the bolts to the anchor at the top of the pitch. This make for about a 170' lead. The bolted part of this pitch is very sequential and sustained and has some of the prettiest granite I have ever seen on a beautiful arete. I could not lower off even to the ledge gully on the left with a 60m rope so I belayed my partner up the route and we did one short rappel to anchor at the top of the climb "Stained Glass" and then another to the ground. Also it would be possible to rappel to the ledge system on the left side for an ascent of "Sea of Dreams" et al. I always bring a yellow alien and place it at the top of the upper crux (after the thin right-angling crack) flake as it is a ways between bolts and I have often arrived there with a good pump. Super route, do it!! Sep 20, 2004
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Greetings...I understand the need for a "yellow Alien" or green blue red etc.... I do not happen to have any Aliens. A suggestion would be to say try a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of gear.... Yes I'm a dirtbag and do not make a lot of dough! Mar 9, 2009
Jonathan Lagoe
Boulder
 
Jonathan Lagoe   Boulder
 
Brilliant. Sep 3, 2012
I've removed two hallow aluminum SMC descending rings from the top anchor. The quicklinks are still at the anchor. If you want them back, let me know.

Leaving descent rings at the top of a popular sport climb is dangerous. Stop doing that. Jul 16, 2016
Thanks to Ken Heiser for his suggestion to place an Alien between the last two bolts. The gray Alien fits well too. Either way, it cuts the runout between the bolts in half. There's also an opportunity to place a wire between the
last bolt an the p1 anchor. Excellent route - sustained and thought-provoking.

We didn't climb the short second pitch. Instead, we rapped about 60 feet to the rappel anchor at the top of the first pitch of Stained Glass. The anchor is not visible from the top of P1 of SoI; rappel diagonally in the direction of the small tree. From the SG rappel anchor, it's almost 100 feet to the base of Wrinkles in Time. Sep 13, 2017