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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Todd Bol, Stephen Nance
Page Views: 760 total, 11/month
Shared By: tbol on Jun 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This variation had been looked at for some time. Despite interest it had never been bolted.... Well, now it is. Three shiny bolts protect the new and somewhat direct start to 'Wrinkles in Time.' Climb the suprisingly fun, overhanging arete to the second or (better for rope drag) third bolt on 'Wrinkles in Time.'

It is a glorified boulder problem with the added bonus of climbing the rest of 'Wrinkles.' I hope people will enjoy it. For hardmen sportos out there wanting to work on it, I sincerely hope you find it to be fun. However, please keep in mind that it shares chains with the best warm-up in the area and a popular route for people of all abilities.

The grade I suggested may be totally off. That's about what we felt it was after doing it a few times.

Location

It is just right of the regular start to 'Wrinkles in Time.' You begin by climbing the first bit of the 'Underworld Traverse' in Rossiter's old book.

Protection

3 QDs, a #1 or 0.75 Camalot for the start, and a few runners for the third or fourth bolt on 'Wrinkles.' A stick-clip would be useful if you lacked the appropriate gear, or clip the first bolt when you come down from 'Wrinkles.'

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Chris Weidner
  5.12a
Chris Weidner  
  5.12a
Great route! It's nice to have the first bolt stick-clipped, and it's still heads up getting to -- and clipping -- the second bolt. 12a seems right. Oct 10, 2015
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
No way around it, this thing is 12a. Not a long route, but there are three hard moves in a row with somewhat bad feet. Small, yet positive crimps on an overhanging arete. Moves feel like V4 climbing. Worthy of a try by all!

For those wanting to have an easier time clipping the first bolt, you can either:

a) use a good undercling/pocket/sidepull out right just before the business. Stand up tall with a foot on the break of the crack and clip, or

b) head straight up the arete via a good long sidepull on the face, foot on a big jug clip it then downclimb and continue out right.

A good addition to this wall. Jul 10, 2012
tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
Now that I have been back to repeat this a few times, it seems more like 12a. Jul 5, 2012