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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Fremont Shields, 1998
Page Views: 2,310 total, 11/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the gully left of Wrinkles in Time.

P1. Climb the gully to a steep headwall. Crank a difficult overhang and continue up sustained slab climbing to a bolted anchor. 11a, 100', 10 bolts.

P2. Climb some heady slab moves to the top. 11c if you follow the bolts, easier if you use the corner to the right. 6 bolts.

Protection

Fully bolted. 2 pitches. You may want some gear for the initial gully, especially if it's wet.

Photos

XOG
XOG  
Careful of loose rock at the base of the pitch 2 roof. Two toaster+ sized blocks were pulled off from here last weekend, hitting close to where I was at the pitch 1 belay and ending up near the base of Wrinkles in Time - where fortunately no one was at the time. Also, the anchor situation seems strange for routes starting from this gully - no anchors at the start of any of the routes even though ~40' off the deck, so some trad gear is helpful to anchor the belayer before the 1st bolt is clipped. Also, routes left of Stained Glass appear to have no upper anchors. Aug 7, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The "unknown route" right of Dry Ice is Stained Glass; it is in the MP.com database. May 29, 2006
Tom T  
I did this route today. Pretty fun...I'd agree with the previously mentioned rating of 5.10c for P1. Certainly no harder than 11a. The crux was balancy and awkward, but not too strenuous. May 29, 2006
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Just did the second pitch. 10d , great moves, but a little goofy, because you have to avoid using the corner. One of the bolts was just freshly moved on the slab (still rock dust all over). Jul 10, 2004
The first pitch is awesome and sustained mid-10 climbing. Outside of 2 moves (which were well protected), it all felt like 10a-10c climbing...very, very fun. Sep 16, 2002
The line in between is unknown but sees to be 10c-d? ish (Dream Canyon ratings). My partner from England led it slowly and called it about that. If you go straight up the bolts the crux is at the third bolt; it might be 11a (Dream Canyon ratings). Dream Canyon definitely feels a little inflated. Jul 26, 2002
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
Rossiter shows it sharing the start with Soul on Ice, but there's another bolt down to the right of that start. This web description makes it sound like that's the start, anyone know? And does anyone know the name/grade of the long bolted line to the right but left of Wrinkle in Time? David Houston Sep 4, 2001
A Dan Hare (who else) route ca. Spring 1999. I think he named it "Stained Glass." First pitch is probably .11a with two cruxes and 10 bolts (a burly move right off the deck and easier but delicate moves about halfway up). Second pitch is very thin slab climbing if you follow the direct line from bolt to bolt; a little easier (10+?) if you stay near the right margin of the slab at bolts 4 & 5 until a traverse left above the fifth bolt. Finishes with a short headwall after a runout. 6 bolts on the second pitch. Recommended. Jun 25, 2001