Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare and Johnna Tipton, c. 1991
Page Views: 353 total · 2/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route starts in the approach gully, right of Soul On Ice and left of Stained Glass. Difficult moves past a bolt (plus an optional TCU placement) lead to some slabby climbing, then the business. The dihedral breaks left and steepens, necessitating creative undercling/lieback moves for 15 feet. A difficult reach to the left to escape the flake is the final crux.

Protection

Fully bolted, but bring a few small TCUs and nuts if you aren't solid on 5.11. Bring gear for an anchor at the start if you belay in the gully. Bolted rap station shared with Soul on Ice.

Photos

Rossiter has this as 11a in the Boulder Canyon book, and I would have to agree. He also shows the crux at the undercling moves, which felt much easier than a section of steeper slab moves up a shallow corner down below. For the sake of comparison, this felt easier to me than either the Deep (11c) or Dream On (11c). Just my $.02. Jul 11, 2001
You need a full 60m of rope to lower down. If your rope is shorter, the belayer may want to lower the leader to the top of the wet gully below the first bolt. Sep 22, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Looks like a key hold broke off at the end of the crux section. After doing what from the above description used to be the crux, underclinging the left-leaning corner and stretching left for a short bit of vertical finger crack, suddenly it gets way harder. There's a 12" wide orange spot on the rock to the left that looks like where a flake broke off. As it is now, it feels like 11+ (didn't do it--took a couple short, sharp swings to the right attempting it then bailed). You need to undercling with the right hand and get the feet real high on nothing to reach the left edge of the flake above. After that it may be a little more sketchy clipping the next bolt without having the now-gone hold to stand on and recover. Or did I just totally blow the last move? Jun 12, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
I agree with Ivan--this route has gotten much harder than it was a few years ago. In addition to the large ledge that fell off just after the crux layback and step left (identified by a 1'-square brown spot), several smaller edges and flakes in the crux section appear to be gone as well.

The anchor at the top of the pitch has two bolts with hangers and a third bolt with no hanger. There were no slings or rings. I added quick-links and rap rings to allow lowering and rappelling. This anchor is shared with Soul on Ice and Flying Vee. Jun 4, 2006
I did this a couple days ago and definitely would agree it felt harder than 11a.... I thought both the first couple moves out of the approach gully and the crux itself were both in the mid to high 11 range... Also, I placed a 0 TCU in the finger crack after the first bolt and was REALLY glad I had it. It would have been a pretty run-out move on relatively difficult rock without that. Aug 13, 2009
Julia
  5.11-
Julia  
  5.11-
Watch out for water during the slab moves about halfway up, it's very slippery. May 17, 2015
I didn't do the route, but fully bolted is just a little bit of a joke. Without trad gear (that I don't know how good the gear placements), I would consider this route rated X. You do have a bolt at the beginning of the route at 5-7 ft that is about 30 ft up a steep gully. The next bolt up is really high maybe 30 ft above the first. With a good belay, you will only break your legs.

I did see an bolt hole about 10 ft above the fist bolt. The other weird thing the hangers are freshly spray painted including a old homemade hanger half the way up the climb. Maybe some of the bolts got chopped. Jul 16, 2016