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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Eric & Greg Johnson
Page Views: 309 total · 6/month
Shared By: Greg Johnson on Aug 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is powerful and fun. The FA of Lost Dreams V 5-6 (stand start, dihedral finish) was done by Eric on TR, due to back-breaker blocks. I added a sit start off the double underclings and a finish out the rail/fin to create Long Lost Dreams, also on TR. Good spots and pads could make it a vaguely safe proposition without a rope, maybe.

Start from obvious flat edges or undercling sit. Bust up the crack to a horizontal. Fuss up the splitter finger crack and turn the lip at the dihedral or out the fin.

Location

Lost Dreams is on a blocky boulder cluster near the top of the gully that separates Dream Dome from Lost Angel, hence its name. The trail that drops down the gully passes just above Lost Dreams, which faces north.

Protection

It is easy to rig anchor at the top off a big tree. A directional piece or two will keep the rope out of the crack. Due to the steepness of the line, the TR is only effective for the top half of the problem.

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