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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 337 total, 3/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Aug 24, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin at the base of A Brief History of Time, but climb up and right in a scoop to the top of a semi-detached pillar. From there, follow the bolts up and right making several tricky slab moves. A nice addition to the wall.

This is the FOURTH sport climb down from the top, right-most climb:
Highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang: Wet Dreams
Nearly the same start: Gully Washer
20' below them, at the big pine tree, the crap climb up the trough with high first bolt: Route between Timeless and Gully Washer
20' farther down, this route.

Anyone have the name and first ascent info?

Protection

8? bolts. 10-12 quickdraws.

Photos

John Johnson
5.10b/c
John Johnson  
5.10b/c
I agree with Nick and Greg on this one. Just climbed this route a few days ago. It looks pretty straightforward from the ground, but the crux is pretty tricky. There doesn't really seem to be a direct route up the bolts at the crux, you either go left to a bulgy flake (maybe a 5.10b or 5.10c move, super stretched out), or move farther right. Either way, you're setting yourself up for a big lead swing fall. There's no way the crux move was 5.10a.

The 2012 guidebook only shows 13 routes on this wall and shows gully washer in the position of these climbs, so I really wasn't totally sure what I was getting on. Jul 18, 2017
Greg Barnes
  5.10b/c
Greg Barnes  
  5.10b/c
I agree with Nick. This has very delicate smeary stemming, Joshua Tree 5.10b or even c, only a few moves but a surprise if you're expecting 5.9-ish climbing. Fun! Jul 25, 2015
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
  5.10
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
  5.10
The crux around the 5-6th bolts is quite hard. It's only 2-3 moves, but I think solid 5.10, maybe even 10+ by local standards. I think many people are doing the wrong route - this one is trivial for the first couple bolts. Jul 4, 2012
Does somebody have a picture of this climb? The current routes on the wall are not matching quite matching with Mountain Project. Apr 8, 2012
Paul Brooks
Boulder
Paul Brooks   Boulder
10ab. Good climbing although not too obvious. Guidebooks are a little hard to follow in this area Jul 9, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.9
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.9
Climbed this route today on my first visit to the area. Eight bolts on the route, not ten as the guidebook states. I thought the crux was at about bolt 6, where the route steepens and handholds disappear. Had to step right into a scoop and reach back left to clip, then up. No trouble down low. Fun route, good rock. I,d do it again, even if just to see if I could stay more in line with the bolts. Jul 1, 2011
cLohse
Boulder, CO
 
cLohse   Boulder, CO
 
This route is probably about right at 9+. IMHO, it's the move past the first bolt, which is a high step off a good right foot on granular, frictious crimps which is the crux. Stand that sucker up and you're good to go.

Also, it's listed in the guidebook as Timeless. Jul 21, 2010
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.10a
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.10a
I thought that this climb was awkward also. The moves that made it close to 10a were not even in line with the bolts and I felt like I was off route half the time. Probably will not repeat this climb again. Jun 7, 2009
Wanderinfree Chrislip
Boulder, CO
Wanderinfree Chrislip   Boulder, CO
Not sure if this is the same route I went up--not in the guidebooks yet. But the crux around bolt 6 in the black, water streaked pod felt way harder than 10.a. But I'm not a fan of slab, so who knows. Jun 7, 2009