Type: Trad, Aid, 85 ft
FA: Hayden Robinson
Page Views: 1,091 total · 29/month
Shared By: Hayden robinson on May 30, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb to the third bolt of Tales of Power, and continue to the base of the roof. #1.5 and 0.75 Camalots protect the next move which steps out on to the roof with a #0.5 Friend. The rest of the crack looks ripe for the smallest of slider nuts. I only had one that worked, so I found a bomber placement and reached as far as I could to hammer the fixed Bugaboo which I stacked with a Lost Arrow. From the pins, you can load up the crack with a range of technical Friends. From these, there are grappling hook and cam hook placements through the face of the dihedral to the crack in the small roof (0.5 cam). Follow the line of weakness. A 00 C3 protects the runout to the anchor of Tales of Power.

Location

It's the crack that splits the roof between Tales of Power and Phantasmagoria.

Protection

1 fixed pin, as many mini-slider nuts as possible, #1.5, 0.75, 0.5 Camalots, technical Friends, TCUs, 00 c3, nuts, pink tricam, hooks, and cam hooks.

Photos

0 Comments