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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T A3
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, June 1996
Page Views: 18,355 total · 85/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000 with updates from Bill Lawry
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Wrinkles in Time is one of the best (and most moderate) routes that Dream Canyon has to offer. Granite reminiscent of Yosemite, thoughtfully placed bolts, and cool exposure combine to make this a true classic. The route tackles the nose of the Dream Dome buttress in 2 pitches.

The first, beginning at the low point of the formation, climbs a large flake, a short fingercrack (crux), and a long section of juggy face climbing. After ~100 feet, the leader reaches a comfortable stance with a 2-bolt belay.

The second pitch, shorter and easier at ~50 feet and 5.7, climbs straight up from the belay and bypasses a short overhang on the way to another 2 bolt anchor.

Those with a 60 meter rope can make 2 rappels to the ground from here. Otherwise, top out and descend the gully.


You'll need a set of small nuts/#1 TCU and a #1 Camalot to protect between bolts on this route. Otherwise, 12 quickdraws will suffice for gear. A 60 meter rope is necessary if you wish to rappel.
Enough sandbag grades! The bottom is definitely 5.9 and the upper pitch is thin enough to easily warrant 5.8. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I don't know if 5.8+ is sandbagged... I remember working a bit with 2 quarts of water and 2 sets of shoes in my backpack... but the moves seemed straightforward. Especially the second pitch, it was a race between the belayer and the climber to see who could move the rope quicker. YMMV... Jan 1, 2001
The guidebooks all rate it 5.9.....when I led it I thought it was pretty easy for 5.9 but then most of the Dream canyon climbs seem a little inflated to me also (remember Long Dong Dihedral). Id say 8+ is fair since the 1st pitch is pretty sustained but the second pitch is definately easy 5.7. Theres an awesome one pitch line called Brief History in time on the right side of Dream dome thats also rated 5.9, is more sustained and has a much harder finger crack than Wrinkles crux finger crack. Jan 1, 2001
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
The first bolt is by no means "thoughtfully placed," although the rest of the route is very well bolted. I put a small-medium nut in the crack below the first bolt while standing on the large flake at the bottom to protect those moves. They might be a bit sketchy for someone expecting a straight-up 5.9 face climb. Jan 1, 2001
That's whats so cool about upper dream, its part trad, part bolted.....its not exclusively sport climbing by any means....the guide book says take some gear and QDs....Ive led Wrinkles with a light rack and really all you need is one nut or small cam for the finger crack and the rest is fine with the bolts.....GREAT climb. Jan 1, 2001
Shad O'Neel - I'd agree w/5.8 on the 1st pitch, 5.6 or 5.7 or the second. Definitely glory, though. Jan 1, 2001
Ok, I've done this wonderful climb twice in the last 2 weeks and the finger crack is no harder than 5.7 but the crux is at the 3rd or 4th bolt (can't remember exactly), right where you get onto the arete.....This climb definately warrants the "classic" description....very fun, steep, sustained and exposed. The 2nd pitch IS 5.8 if you stay on-route, which is on the very narrow blank face/arete where the bolts are.....However, it is FAR too easy to step right and cruise up the gully to the right and make it 5.6 or easier.....very contrived 2nd pitch but thin, balancy and fun if you stay on route....the first pitch deserves 5 stars and the 2nd deserves 1. Jun 6, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I am not sure where you would need to place a #1 Camalot on this route, or for that matter, any cams at all? This route requires one small nut from the stance atop the flake, that is it. The bolts are in decent clipping positions and the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt is protected fine. Don't bring all that stuff along for this route, you will end up asking yourself, what was that shit for ? Besides this, not a bad route a little dirty around the 1/2 bolt area, nonetheless fun..

Jeff. Jun 7, 2002
The finger crack at the start is at most 5.7+. If you didn't bring gear down to the Canyon and are a pretty solid 5.9/10 trad climber, then you'll be OK with just QDs. Kudos to the for not putting a bolt in this section. Jul 1, 2002
This route is damn fun! We just rapped in early morning and preclipped first bolt as we pulled worries!!! Ha ha ha. I don't think there's any reason to sit around placing gear on such a straightforward and moderate route. The moves on the 1st pitch are cool by themselves! the second pitch is definitely no harder than 5.7, but it'll get ya a wee if you haven't done multipitches before moving between 1st and 2nd's just a tad long, but still no worries, the 1st'll hold ya and there's nothing evil to fall on. I mean, this is so well protected and moderate I'd let a 10 year old kid lead it...just kidding, but it is easy cheesy. For a fun time, head up the gully left of wrinkle in time to the farthest left route. It's the most insane slab weirdness, kinda scary, goes at 5.8 in the book, I think. Anyway, have a fun time climbing! Oh yeah, how can you be worried on pitches less than 100 ft? Jan 3, 2003
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
Sink 1 small nut in the finger crack to protect the first bolt, otherwise leave the gear behind and stick with QD's. 5.9 first pitch 5.7 second pitch. Completely enjoyable moderate climb especially if you (or your second) aren't solid on 5.10 and up. The climbing plus location gets 5 stars for me. May 23, 2003
Classic ...... The finger crack protects easily with a small stopper. I found a #1 cam helpful between the 1st and 2nd bolts on the 2nd Pitch. Jun 16, 2003
James Balasalle
James Balasalle  
This really is a good climb. Interesting moves on the first pitch. I felt the crux to be a roof/bulge about 2/3 the way up the first pitch. Slabby, smeary stuff on the second. When you're on the second pitch, you have a great view of the other climbs on Dream Dome. They look pretty sweet...

I agree with Jeff and Jay... leave the cams. I took a light rack of cams and didn't place a single one. You can put 2 stoppers in to protect the bottom finger crack if you want. Those were the only pieces that I placed, and the only that I felt like I needed.

I definitely didn't think 5.8+ felt sandbagged. I felt the bottom crack to be easier, just like everyone else has said. Definitely a cool climb, and very much worth doing. Jul 16, 2003
A lot of people have said "don't bring any gear except for a small stopper/cam for the crack at the beginning". If you follow this advice, (i.e. not bringing the #1 Camalot for pitch 2) you will take a pretty big fall (below your belayer) if you blow it just before getting to the second bolt on pitch 2. I'd strongly recommend bringing the #1 Camalot for pitch 2 (it doesn't weigh that much) and deciding for yourself once you're up there. Sep 29, 2003
Area Dan
Oakland, CA
Area Dan   Oakland, CA
Why is almost every thread on this site directly related to someone stroking their own ego? Who is anyone to say to put gear in or not? Anecdotes are cool and very useful- good example: "if you didn't bring gear down to the Canyon and are a pretty solid 5.9/10 trad climber, then you'll be OK with just QDs."- Joe Collins, kudos to Joe Collins. Bad example: "Don't bring any gear except for the finger crack at the start."

A 5.7 leader would probably soil their pants if they did that 2nd pitch with only the nut their partner placed on the first pitch. That's great you can run out 5.7. I don't care if you can run out 5.12, the comment is not very useful or relevant.

By the way, a great route- we did it today, postholing up to the start, I manteled up to the block to start and booted up there to avoid wet rock shoes, but otherwise dry (and I 2nd Joe's comment).

Lots of mountain lion tracks in the snow- also cool. Feb 18, 2004
Anyone know about the route immediately left of Wrinkles, it doesn't seem to match Rossiter's guide, though the next route left seems to. Really slabby, with a steep start out of the gully. Maybe 11a, 10d. lots of nice bolts. Need a 60m rope to get back to the ground (just right). Jul 15, 2004
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Look at the post for "Stained Glass." It was over rated a bit by the poster. Jul 15, 2004
Luke Evans
Luke Evans  
Kind of Scary if you don't place gear before the 1st bolt. But not too bad and adds a little spice to a magnificent Route! The wrinkled pinches are unreal and I wish there were like 5 more pitches of it. Aug 8, 2005
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
Compareth is to the climbs put up in Boulder Canyon since 2000, and you have to call this route 5.9. Aug 28, 2005
Great route.

I took a buddy and his daughter up this a few years back. She had been climbing for some time but had only quickdraws, no trad rack.
After we did the route, she returned a few days later to take a friend up it. I guess she felt, like many here, that putting pro in before the first bolt was unnecessary.

She fell from the moves getting to the bolt, hit the flake, then fell the rest of the way to the ground and got banged up pretty good. I think her dad told me the SAR had her winched up the dome in under an hour, which is really amazing. That's why that emergency phone is there I guess.

Anyway, just wanted to remind folks what can happen if you let your guard down or get in over your head while blowing off opportunities for protection. Apr 5, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Excellent route up wrinkled rock! I'd definitely take a few nuts and cams for before the first bolt and start of p2. You may not use them, but it's nice to have the option. I can't imagine not wanting a stopper before the first bolt.

The crux felt near the 4th bolt, just after 2 bolts close together. One problem is you can't see the next bolt and it's not so obvious where to go. I'm voting 5.9, although maybe it was just the wooden fingers and 40 mph gusts that were messing with me! We climbed Dreamscape too and Wrinkles felt a grade harder, but only in this one place. Apr 16, 2006
John Fulwider
  5.8+ PG13
John Fulwider  
  5.8+ PG13
I also encourage bringing a small cam or nut to protect the climb to the first bolt. This weekend a Dream Canyon regular told me of a fall where the climber missed the bolt and had perhaps a worse experience than bouncing off the flake and decking -- he got his leg caught in the flake on the way down and dangled for an hour and a half from a broken leg before rescuers could extract him. The leader I climbed behind is a 5.12 climber, and he protected the move.

I would also recommend this route to those leading a group of climbers with mixed experience. It has an interesting crux even for the better climbers, but is more than doable for those just starting out. May 22, 2006
Rob Kepley
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Such a fine route. Fun movement near the top. Aug 28, 2006
Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
I would have liked this climb a lot more if it wasn't so wet!! haha May 2, 2007
Date of the FA was June 1996. This was our first route on the Dream Dome and the first new route since Kyle Copeland visited the rock in 1984. May 9, 2007
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
I used two small to medium stoppers in the crack on the first pitch (less than 1/2 inch), and my partner used a 1 inch cam on the second pitch.

To me, the reason why this climb feels very soft for its grade is that for the majority of the climb (at least on the first pitch), the difficult climbing is not sustained. There are a few good moves in the beginning, but then there is much easier ground until the arete. Once on the arete, there is a move or two that makes one think, and then it eases up considerably with large holds. The second pitch is a pleasant cruise.

For me, this climb was considerably LESS demanding (mentally and physically) than the Northface Center Route (2 pitch, 5.7) on Cobb Rock which falls nearly two grades below the consensus here!

Still, it is a wonderful climb; I highly recommend it. Aug 18, 2007
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Classic easy route with some moderate runouts. If you're here for harder routes you can climb this out of the valley with your pack by linking both pitches and passing the upper anchor until you reach a tree. You might want a couple cams if you do this, but it's easy to run out up there. Just a little bit 'o simul-ing with a 70m. May 17, 2009
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
Climbed this route (first pitch only) today on my first visit to the upper canyon. I placed a mid-sized stopper (bomber placement) in the finger crack and felt comfortable with just the bolts the rest of the way. One crux move pulling onto the ribs (wrinkles) about halfway up the pitch. The anchors are placed at the perfect height for lowering off the first pitch with a 60m rope. The weird features and beautiful setting make this an absolute must do. Can't wait to go back and finish it. Jul 1, 2011
Josh Rawson
Boulder, CO
Josh Rawson   Boulder, CO
Great first pitch. Second pitch isn't worth the time unless you just want some multi-pitch and rappel practice. Jul 25, 2011
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
Easily done without gear. The only place that even needs gear is the finger crack below the first bolt. And if you're comfortable climbing 5.9, then you can lead this without gear. The moves to the first bolt are definitely sketch and airy for sure but solid moves. No gear required IMHO. Aug 14, 2011
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Climbed it today. First pitch felt 5.9 somewhere around the 4th or 5th bolt. I used a nut to protrect the finger crack below the 1st bolt, this was not the crux. I'd give the crack 5.7 1 move wonder. Also places a blue TCU in a small horizontal somewhere along the way.

The 2nd pitch is 5.8 if you stick to the face for the last 2 bolts. 5.5 if you head up the gully.

Prod. Oct 16, 2011
Chip Loomis
Chip Loomis  
Not much of a trad climber, but I still felt comfortable leading this climb. I put a medium size nut in the crack below the first bolt. 5.8- moves at that point. Apr 8, 2012
I just finished climbing this yesterday. Both my partner and myself think the grade is a little sandbagged. Definitely a couple 5.9 moves on the first pitch.

Second pitch was extremely easy, very well-protected. It's easy to run out a few bolts on the second pitch due to the huge holds and elementary moves.

As for gear, don't bring more than 12 draws (this includes extras in case you drop one). And a new piece of gear that fits perfectly for the run out first bolt is a 0 Helium Friend. No need for any more gear than that. Also, be ready for the arĂȘte, the mind space needs to be there, otherwise you will impale yourself on the tree 5ft down from the crux move.

All in all, I recommended this route. I will be taking some of my less advanced climbing partners there to teach leading. Jul 26, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Really fun route in a beautiful setting. The crux can be made as difficult as you would like, depending on how you climb it. I totally missed the sequence this last time and made it quite a lot harder than it needed to be. Or maybe it was the vision of the tree impaling me in a certain sensitive area should I fall that made it seem harder.... May 20, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
What is a 'small cam' - a small cam to protect below the 1st bolt is a C3 size. A 0.3 C4 is too big. Maybe red or yellow (which is practically a 0.3) - I'm not sure because I left mine at home. Used a medium nut like many others, which isn't quite desirable for your first piece. Aug 5, 2013
Ted Peterson
Boulder, CO
Ted Peterson   Boulder, CO
The high first bolt and naturally-protected crux keeps out all the riff raff, IMO. A small (not micro) nut will suffice for this section, and you could place a smallish cam in a sort of runout section in the middle of the second pitch. Super fun climbing. If you bring some long slings and maybe skip a couple bolts, it's easy to link pitches as well (I have a 70m, but I think a 60m would also do). Aug 24, 2013
Scott Taber
Scott Taber  
Fun fun route! Lots of nice features and good exposure. Used a cam to get from the flake to the first bolt because high first bolts freak me out. Rest of pitch 1 was fabulous. Pitch 2 is slightly less thrilling but still nice. Very well-protected for sure. I skipped a bolt without much concern near the top. Nice view from the anchors on a sunny day. So nice it's worth climbing twice! Aug 29, 2013
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
Awesome route! One of the best at the grade I have climbed in BC. For a bit of beta, I used a small nut and a #1 C3 (#0 would work as well) to protect the crack up to the first bolt. Personally, I wouldn't listen to the folks saying you don't need gear. I would think of it more as a trad protected start instead of simply a high first bolt. A fall before the bolt would be bad news. An earlier comment shows what can happen. The crack takes great gear, so why not use it?! Most people don't skip the first bolt off of the ground, so why would you skip putting gear in when it's readily available? Pretty tough to be a hard ass when your legs are broken....

The rest of the route is bolted well, maybe a tad "sporty" but still perfectly safe. A couple mid/small C4s protected the upper section between bolts 1-2 if I remember correctly. Aug 5, 2014
Corey Dvorak
Denver, CO
Corey Dvorak   Denver, CO
Not a terrible route. The first bolt is not well placed, but it's easy to protect with cams. However, people should be aware the anchor bolts for the first pitch are GLUED.... Be careful on this route, the bolts held, but it's definitely not entirely safe in my mind to climb/anchor off glued hardware. Mar 29, 2015
Well bolted for the grade, I placed a #2 at the beginning, because why not! May 17, 2015
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
If we remove 2 or 3 bolts, this route might consensus its way up to 5.10a. ;-) Oct 4, 2015
Soph Binder
Soph Binder   ST. LOUIS, MO
Just a warning: there is a tree, the top of which is cutoff, right under the 5th (I think) bolt. It points up like a dagger. I had a close encounter with it today as my foot slipped when I made a move on the rounded flake there. Fell right on top of it, and it stabbed my leg earning me 10 stitches....

Just a warning. I felt good, had passed the gear part just fine, in easier territory....

Things happen, and what was just a good fall became really bad because of the "dagger tree".

Heads up! Jul 23, 2016
Soph Binder
Soph Binder   ST. LOUIS, MO
And thank to a good friend, the killer tree has been removed as of today!
Edit: yes trimmed down, not removed :) Jul 26, 2016
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^^ You removed the whole tree?!?!? Seriously? No offense, but that was unwarranted. Please don't remove the tree next time. Trim it a little....meh, maybe, but remove the tree, no.

Edit: very good, Mauricio, glad to hear it wasn't removed. Jul 26, 2016
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Mendoza, Argentina & Mexico…
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra   Mendoza, Argentina & Mexico…  
The tree was not entirely removed, only the offending branch/dagger was trimmed off by members of the Boulder Climbing Community. That happened on Sunday, July 24th. Jul 26, 2016
Alton R.
Boulder, Co
Alton R.   Boulder, Co Feb 13, 2017
B. Smith
Denver, CO
B. Smith   Denver, CO
Used 1 nut to protect the beginning of pitch 1, then did not need any other gear for the route, just bolts. It did not seem too spaced out other than the first bolt. Very safe and very fun route. Mar 19, 2017

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