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Routes in Dream Dome

A Brief History of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams V1 5
Disillusioned Reality T C2+
Disillusioned Reality free variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Down, Not Out V3 6A
Dreamscape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Ice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Vee T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Gully Washer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake's Problem V1-2 5
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Lost Dreams V6-7 7A+ PG13
Phantasmagoria T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Limit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Simone Has Dreams TR V4-5 6B+
Soul on Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stained Glass S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whippers in Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrinkled Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 5,718 total, 28/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Start 70' uphill from Wrinkles in Time at a slab leading to a right-facing corner capped by a roof.

P1. Climb up right to a small roof and pull it on the right. Layback up to a right-facing corner, then move left and up past a roof to a 2-bolt anchor on the slab. 11b, 80', 9 bolts.

P2. Climb up the slab on an obvious black waterstreak to a 2-bolt anchor. Delicate friction climbing and manteling. 11a, 70', 7 bolts.

Protection

Fully bolted. You can rap with a 50m rope.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
This is an AM climb. When the sun comes overhead, you get blinded trying to see on P2, at least this time of year. Jun 15, 2017
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
 
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
 
The first pitch is 5.awesome. The second pitch is 5.shit. Sep 27, 2016
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
Maybe this should be called Tales of Balance? That's what it felt like to me. Jun 14, 2015
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I did P2 again today, and it seemed like it was harder than in the past. I noticed a lot of spots where rock has flaked off. It's still all doable. It's a great pitch, requiring good rubber and balance. Sep 18, 2009
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
I'll second what David said. The 2nd pitch has got to be one of the best pure friction slabs around. It would be a classic no matter what area it was in. Nov 8, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Great climb. I thought pitch 1 was bolted very thoughtfully. For a 5'4" climber, they can be reached from good stances. Need to go back and do pitch 2 - looks really nice. May 26, 2007
David A. Turner
  5.11b
David A. Turner  
  5.11b
I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon. May 28, 2006
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Fantastic climb. I was going to skip the second pitch, but it looked sooo good. Although a completely different character, it was equally enjoyable. Mar 7, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11b
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11b
This is one of the best routes that I have done in Dream Canyon. Moving left to the anchors is thought provoking. There are some hidden small crimps on the lip of the overhang that may help. The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first, don't miss out because it is a slab climb.

Oct 19, 2003
I agree Ron. Fun climb, and the crux can be done different ways depending on one's own body. Tony Bubb says it's done with the stem all the way up to the "chunks", and one person in our group did it that way today. I stemmed lower and then brought my body left and used the left face to reach up and do a fun heel hook to top out. Even though that felt good, another partner did it in a way so smoothly that her's had to be the most efficient, or at least it looked that way for her body. She stemmed to where her left foot was on a decent edge on the left face and the right foot was on the big hold to the right. Then she laid back off her left hand and just lifted her right foot up and left into a cool smearing drop knee kind of position, and then just stood up on it to be able to reach the holds to finish it out. This way seemed the smoothest of the three, but then again, I guess it depends on your own body. Jun 29, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Great climbing on both pitches; a Dream Canyon classic.

The first pitch angles up and cranks an airy roof on big jugs, then power laybacks up to the final corner and roof. The final crux can be climbed in several ways, depending on your height; I use some wide stems. Thoroughly interesting and enjoyable.

The second pitch is sustained slab climbing and mantling, with few positive holds for your hands. Delicate finesse slab climbing at its best. Aug 23, 2002
2nd pitch is awesome slab climbing. If it were at Tuolomne or JTree this would probably be a 2-3 bolt, bolted-on-lead (i.e. bolts protecting the easy parts), 5.10c, sphinctor-tightener Jul 1, 2002
I didn't find the roof to be so much reachy as pumpy. However, exiting to the anchors at the end of P1 felt reachy. I ended up with some kind of stem/smear/thrash thing to exit left. That felt hard, like 11 a/b, but not in a fun way. May 6, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
I suppose the long reach beta is to move hard left to the arete after the last clip, to get to the anchors. This is not necessary.

BETA: First pitch roof can be reached from a strange stem into the corner, left foot on left side and right foot coming from the right side, then into a heal-toe smear in the little acute inset. From there, use a little butt-friction to oppose the left foot and undercling smear the "chunks" above in the corner. Move up to good edges. This is not a height-dependent move, but does actually feel like 11a/b. May 6, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
1st pitch roof is stiff without extra long reach. 2nd pitch felt much easier. Apr 1, 2002