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A Brief History of Time

5.9, Trad,  Avg: 2.3 from 89 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1997
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Dream Dome

Description

Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.

Eds. Dale Haas and Bruce Hildenbrand bolted a direct finish to the route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack, go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range. 

Protection

Stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect a blank face...chain anchor.

Eds. For the direct finish, clip two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brian on the fun crack/flake.
[Hide Photo] Brian on the fun crack/flake.
Victor just finishing the traverse.
[Hide Photo] Victor just finishing the traverse.
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the start.
[Hide Photo] Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the start.
Just before clipping the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Just before clipping the first bolt.
A Brief History of Time.  Climb the big flake, place a couple of pieces of pro, and step left onto a slab.  Work up and right past three bolts, then fire the flared finger and hand crack (crux). More slab climbing leads to the anchor.
[Hide Photo] A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, place a couple of pieces of pro, and step left onto a slab. Work up and right past three bolts, then fire the flared finger and hand crack (crux). Mo…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU Jun 21, 2001
[Hide Comment] If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though. Jun 22, 2001
[Hide Comment] Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut! Jul 23, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book. Aug 23, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic. Aug 23, 2002
David HH
CR, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy! Jul 15, 2006
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
[Hide Comment] There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun. Jul 26, 2007
David House
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop with one new bolt and the new route could take over History's crack finish. BTW I found the crux of History to be the slabby step left at the first bolt rather than the upper crack but that may speak more to my weaknesses than the route! Jul 17, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This has 3 bolts, but the D'Antonio guide lists the route as only having 2 bolts. Oct 20, 2014
Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder
[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I bolted the direct finish to this route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range. Aug 23, 2016
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This was a great climb minus the moss on the top slab. With some more traffic, I'd give this three stars. For now, two stars seems right. Nov 14, 2016