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Plotinus Wall Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,099 ft |
| GPS: | 40.007, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 147,397 total · 585/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access now open
Details
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2022
Details
As of Feb. 2022, per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director for the Boulder Climbing Community, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Closure
Details
From the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Description
Lots of excellent 5.10 and 5.11 sport climbs have been established here over the past few years, mostly by Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas. A few routes require some supplementary gear in addition to the bolts, so be sure to check the route description before you head up a climb with just quickdraws.
Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.
There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.
Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.
There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.
Getting There
From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.
From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.
Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.
Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".
Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.
Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.
Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".
Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
Routes
Per Greg Hand: beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).
A1 .My Buddy, 10 (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left), 1p, bolts.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10, 1p.
B. Sleepless Child, 9, 1p, gear, crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, bolts, RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, bolts.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, bolts.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, bolts.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, bolts.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above F/G. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts.
H. Napster, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Something Obscure, 10-, 1p, gear.
J. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, bolts.
N. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts, traverse.
O. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, bolts.
P. War on Freedom, 13, 1p, bolts.
Q. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts, dihedral.
R. Old bolt route right of corner,11-?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
S. The Scientist, 11, 1p, bolts, slab.
T. Plotinus, 10, 1p, gear.
U. Rama, 11-, 1p, bolts, corner.
V. Lucid Dreaming, 13-, 1p, bolts, arete.
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
W. Boulder Quartz System, 12-, 1p, bolts.
X1. Tooth and Nail, 11-, 1p, bolts.
X2. Counting Sheep, 11, 1p, bolts.
Y1. Sominex, 11-, 1p, crack.
Y2. Sleep Deprivation, 10, 1p, crack.
Below the ledge is one route:
Z. I Have a Dream, 11-, 1p, bolts.
A1 .My Buddy, 10 (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left), 1p, bolts.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10, 1p.
B. Sleepless Child, 9, 1p, gear, crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, bolts, RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, bolts.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, bolts.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, bolts.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, bolts.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above F/G. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts.
H. Napster, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Something Obscure, 10-, 1p, gear.
J. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, bolts.
N. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts, traverse.
O. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, bolts.
P. War on Freedom, 13, 1p, bolts.
Q. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts, dihedral.
R. Old bolt route right of corner,11-?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
S. The Scientist, 11, 1p, bolts, slab.
T. Plotinus, 10, 1p, gear.
U. Rama, 11-, 1p, bolts, corner.
V. Lucid Dreaming, 13-, 1p, bolts, arete.
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
W. Boulder Quartz System, 12-, 1p, bolts.
X1. Tooth and Nail, 11-, 1p, bolts.
X2. Counting Sheep, 11, 1p, bolts.
Y1. Sominex, 11-, 1p, crack.
Y2. Sleep Deprivation, 10, 1p, crack.
Below the ledge is one route:
Z. I Have a Dream, 11-, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Plotinus Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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