Elevation: 7,099 ft
GPS: 40.007, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 113,402 total · 489/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Access now open Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details
Access Issue: Closure Details

Description

Lots of excellent 5.10 and 5.11 sport climbs have been established here over the past few years, mostly by Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas. A few routes require some supplementary gear in addition to the bolts, so be sure to check the route description before you head up a climb with just quickdraws.

Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.

There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.

Getting There

From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.

From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.

Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.

Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".

Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.

Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.

Routes

Per Greg Hand: beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).

A1 .My Buddy, 10 (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left), 1p, bolts.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10, 1p.
B. Sleepless Child, 9, 1p, gear, crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, bolts, RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, bolts.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, bolts.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, bolts.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, bolts.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above F/G. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts.
H. Napster, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Something Obscure, 10-, 1p, gear.
J. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, bolts.
N. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts, traverse.
O. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, bolts.
P. War on Freedom, 13, 1p, bolts.
Q. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts, dihedral.
R. Old bolt route right of corner,11-?

The following routes begin from a ledge:

S. The Scientist, 11, 1p, bolts, slab.
T. Plotinus, 10, 1p, gear.
U. Rama, 11-, 1p, bolts, corner.
V. Lucid Dreaming, 13-, 1p, bolts, arete.

The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:

W. Boulder Quartz System, 12-, 1p, bolts.
X1. Tooth and Nail, 11-, 1p, bolts.
X2. Counting Sheep, 11, 1p, bolts.
Y1. Sominex, 11-, 1p, crack.
Y2. Sleep Deprivation, 10, 1p, crack.

Below the ledge is one route:

Z. I Have a Dream, 11-, 1p, bolts.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Plotinus Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 305
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 187
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 199
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 182
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 203
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 165
Chore Boy
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 143
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 96
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 238
The Scientist
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 179
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 83
Tooth Fairy
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 58
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 131
Boulder Quartz System
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 98
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 157
Lucid Dreaming
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman Left Side
 305
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Snooze Button Left Side
 187
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wake Up Call Left Side
 199
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee Left Side
 182
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster Left Side
 203
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy Left Side
 165
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Daily Grind Left Side
 143
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber Left Side
 96
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
The Scientist Middle
 238
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Sleepless in Boulder Left Side
 179
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tooth Fairy Left Side
 83
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled Left Side
 58
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Boulder Quartz System Right Side
 131
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes Left Side
 98
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Lucid Dreaming Middle
 157
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Plotinus Wall »

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