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Plotinus Wall Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,099 ft |
| GPS: | 40.007, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 65,009 total · 319/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Access Closed
Details
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Access Issue: Closure
Details
From the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Description
Lots of excellent 5.10 and 5.11 sport climbs have been established here over the past few years, mostly by Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas. A few routes require some supplementary gear in addition to the bolts, so be sure to check the route description before you head up a climb with just quickdraws.
Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.
There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.
Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.
There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.
Getting There
From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.
From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.
Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.
Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".
Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.
Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.
Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".
Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
Routes
Per Greg Hand: beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).
My Buddy 10b/c (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c - Long, right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b
Snooze Button 10b
Chore Boy 10b/c (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a
The Daily Grind 10d
Caffeine Buzz 8 (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c
Mr. Sandman 10c (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a
War on Freedom, 13
Lucky Strikes 12b Big, inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
The Scientist 11a/b (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a (arete)
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
Boulder Quartz System 12a/b
Tooth and Nail 11a/b (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b
Sominex 11a/b (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Below the ledge is one route:
I Have a Dream 11a 4 bolts
My Buddy 10b/c (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c - Long, right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b
Snooze Button 10b
Chore Boy 10b/c (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a
The Daily Grind 10d
Caffeine Buzz 8 (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c
Mr. Sandman 10c (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a
War on Freedom, 13
Lucky Strikes 12b Big, inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
The Scientist 11a/b (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a (arete)
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
Boulder Quartz System 12a/b
Tooth and Nail 11a/b (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b
Sominex 11a/b (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Below the ledge is one route:
I Have a Dream 11a 4 bolts
Classic Climbing Routes at Plotinus Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
17 Comments
More About Plotinus Wall
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Guidebooks (19)
Boulder Colorado
Golden, CO
Plotinus Wall routes Left to Right
Beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).
My Buddy 10b/c * (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b **
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c ** - Long right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b **
Snooze Button 10b ***
Chore Boy 10b/c ** (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a **
The Daily Grind 10d *
Caffeine Buzz 8 * (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c * (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c **
Mr. Sandman 10c ** (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d **
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b **
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c ** (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a **
Project
Lucky Strikes 12b ** Big inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
The Scientist 11a/b *** (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a ** (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a *** (arete)
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
Boulder Quartz System 12a/b **
Tooth and Nail 11a/b ** (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b *
Sominex 11a/b * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Below the ledge is one route:
I Have a Dream 11a * 4 bolts Mar 24, 2003
Denver
the wasatch
Seattle, WA
chuck ziulkowski Mar 18, 2008
Boulder Colorado
From the UD parking lot find the emergency phone. 20 feet southwest of that is an 8x8 post about 12 feet high. Line up the emergency phone pole and the post and walk along that line across a field towards a private property sign nailed to a tree. Find a faint trail about 10 or 15 feet into the trees on the right (west) side of the private property sign. Follow that trail skirting on the edge of private property signs (and always within view of houses) down a small gully and then back up the other side. The trail will become undefined as you hike back up out of the gully. Continue walking south/southwest until you hit a 4 foot high wooden slat fence making sure too keep the private property signs to the east. Go right (west) to the end of the fence (presumably the end of the private property). Go around the end and follow a faint trail south into a steep, loose, crappy gully. Scramble down said crappy gully several hundred meters until you hit a series of ledges. If the ledges are wet, you may want to go to climber's left and try downclimbing a corner (low 5th) for about 20 feet. Scramble down more scree to the river, find some logs across, and then hike up to Plotinus. I would expect at least 30-45 minutes for the approach and longer for the return. In my opinion, the trip isn't worth the trouble, but there it is.
Incidentally, I have no idea if any or all of this route is on private property, but judging from the private property signs that are always east of the route I think it is on public property. If it is private, let me know and I will remove this post. Apr 11, 2010
Denver, CO
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
So, I ask, how do you get to it if you can't go up from Boulder Falls and you can go down from Upper Dream? Please let me know. Nov 26, 2016
Eldorado Springs, CO
Hey, if anyone was out at Plotinus this weekend (Sat or Sun) and came across a pair of belay glasses in their case near Chore Boy, can you hit me up? My glasses fell off, and I literally just bought them, I'd love to use them at least once. Lol.
Thanks everyone, Mar 5, 2017
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
Admin and others, please reach out to me, Kate Beezley, at Boulder Climbing Community with any additional questions. Jul 30, 2018
Boulder, CO