Plotinus Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.007, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.
There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.
From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.
Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.
Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".
Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.
Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.
A1 .My Buddy, 10 (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left), 1p, bolts.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10, 1p.
B. Sleepless Child, 9, 1p, gear, crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, bolts, RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, bolts.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, bolts.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, bolts.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, bolts.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above F/G. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts.
H. Napster, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Something Obscure, 10-, 1p, gear.
J. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, bolts.
N. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts, traverse.
O. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, bolts.
P. War on Freedom, 13, 1p, bolts.
Q. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts, dihedral.
R. Old bolt route right of corner,11-?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
S. The Scientist, 11, 1p, bolts, slab.
T. Plotinus, 10, 1p, gear.
U. Rama, 11-, 1p, bolts, corner.
V. Lucid Dreaming, 13-, 1p, bolts, arete.
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
W. Boulder Quartz System, 12-, 1p, bolts.
X1. Tooth and Nail, 11-, 1p, bolts.
X2. Counting Sheep, 11, 1p, bolts.
Y1. Sominex, 11-, 1p, crack.
Y2. Sleep Deprivation, 10, 1p, crack.
Below the ledge is one route:
Z. I Have a Dream, 11-, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Plotinus Wall
Days w Precip